Longines has quietly done something quite cheeky with the 2026 HydroConquest. They've redesigned their entry-level diver so thoroughly that it now bears a stronger resemblance to Omega's Seamaster Planet Ocean than the Planet Ocean does to itself.

The applied indices, the ceramic bezel, the overall proportions, the H-link bracelet. Stand this thing next to Omega's recently redesigned Planet Ocean 42mm and the family resemblance is striking. Except this is a Longines, which means you can actually walk into a shop and buy one without a second thought.

Available in 39mm and 42mm cases, both sitting at a tidy 11.7mm thick, these are proper modern dive watches with 300 metres of water resistance, screw-in crowns and unidirectional ceramic bezels.

The L888.5 calibre inside runs a silicon balance spring and packs 72 hours of power reserve, which is more than most watches at twice the ask. It also claims magnetic resistance up to ten times the ISO 764 standard, a spec that sounds like marketing until you remember how many people rest their watch next to their MacBook every night.

The colour matrix here is genuinely impressive. Four dial options include polished lacquered finishes in blue, black and green, plus a frosted-blue sunray variant that Longines is holding back as a boutique and e-commerce exclusive. Smart move. Five ceramic bezel colours run from classic black and blue to slate grey and two newcomers, a verdant green and a luminous blue, which open up a heap of mix-and-match combinations.

But the real story is the Milanese mesh bracelet. Three references come on a tapered, full-brushed mesh with polished sides and a micro-adjustment clasp. This is a first for HydroConquest and it pushes the whole collection into different territory. A 42mm dive watch on mesh doesn't read like a tool watch. It reads like something you'd wear to dinner at Icebergs after a morning session at Bondi, which is exactly the point.

The H-link bracelet models, borrowed from the 2023 GMT, get a double-folding safety clasp with four micro-adjustment positions. The planisphere caseback engraving is carried over too. These are details that give the HydroConquest a cohesion the previous generation lacked.

Longines occupies a strange and enviable position in Swiss watchmaking. Founded in Saint-Imier in 1832, they're older than Omega, older than Rolex, older than just about everyone you'd name in a pub argument about watches.

For the first half of the twentieth century they were genuinely up there with the best, producing chronographs and navigation instruments that rivalled anything coming out of Geneva. The winged hourglass logo is one of the oldest registered trademarks in watchmaking.

Then the Swatch Group happened, and Longines got slotted into the mid-range tier below Omega and above Tissot. Which, depending on how you look at it, was either a demotion or the best thing that ever happened to them. Because it means they get access to Swatch Group's manufacturing scale and movement development, but they're priced at a point where normal people can actually afford what they make.

The L888.5 in the new HydroConquest is a genuine Longines exclusive calibre, not a rebadged ETA, and its spec sheet would have been flagship territory a decade ago.

The HydroConquest itself dates back to 2007 and traces its DNA to the original Conquest line, which received trademark protection in Switzerland back in 1954. The 2023 redesign, which introduced the GMT complication and those H-link bracelets, was a genuine surprise.

It proved Longines could compete in the contemporary sport watch space, not just the heritage reissue game they'd been winning with the Spirit and Legend Diver. This 2026 generation builds on that momentum with the bezel system borrowed from the Ultra-Chron Diver, the expanded colour palette, and the Milanese mesh option that nobody saw coming.

Here's where Longines has always been clever. This is a 'Westfield' watch. Not in a pejorative sense. In the best possible sense.

You're walking through the shopping centre on a Saturday afternoon, you pass the Longines window, that blue dial on mesh catches the light, and you think: I could actually buy that right now. And you can. And it's good. No need to call an AD, get on a waitlist, or pretend you've bought four Lady Datejusts for your aunt.

When you line up what Longines is offering here, a ceramic bezel, a silicon-sprung exclusive movement with 72 hours of reserve, 300m water resistance, and a bracelet with genuine micro-adjust, against what other brands charge for comparable specs, the value case is almost absurd. Longines doesn't need to shout about it. The watch does the talking.

The 2026 HydroConquest might be the most underrated release of the year. It won't get the column inches of a new Rolex Submariner or the breathless Instagram coverage of an AP Royal Oak, but it doesn't need to. This is a watch that succeeds because it doesn't try to be anything other than what it is: a properly made Swiss diver that you can spot, love and buy on the same afternoon.

The Milanese mesh option is the one to get. It transforms the watch from a capable diver into something genuinely versatile, and at this end of the market, nobody else is offering anything close. Cheap, cheerful and a daily driver you can't pass up.

Specifications

Read the full article Longines’ New HydroConquest Looks More Like an Omega Seamaster Than the Actual Seamaster on DMARGE. Don’t miss it!

The Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar now comes in full platinum, limited to 75 pieces.

When Breitling introduced the Caliber B19 during its 140th anniversary celebrations in 2024, it marked the first time the brand had produced a fully in-house perpetual calendar chronograph movement. The debut came across three limited-edition rose gold pieces spanning the Premier, Chronomat, and Navitimer collections.

Last year, the B19 moved into standard production via a stainless steel Navitimer with a platinum bezel and an ice-blue dial. Now, Breitling has gone to the top shelf: full platinum, 75 pieces, deep blue lacquered dial, and an Australian retail price of A$74,990.

The Caliber B19 packs a perpetual calendar, chronograph, and moonphase into 374 components. All five calendar indications, day, date, month, moonphase, and leap year, advance instantaneously at midnight.

That instantaneous jump mechanism is not a trivial engineering exercise. Most perpetual calendars advance their displays gradually, which means you can catch the date half-changed at two minutes past midnight. The B19 snaps everything over in a single coordinated movement.

Factor in 96 hours of power reserve and COSC certification and you have a movement that punches well above where most people would place Breitling in the horological pecking order.

The platinum edition wears a deep blue lacquered dial that Breitling describes as inspired by the stratosphere at high cruising altitudes. It is a darker, moodier treatment than the ice-blue sunburst of the steel model, and it works.

The black outer slide rule paired with a contrasting white inner scale frames the dial without crowding it, which is genuinely impressive given how much information the face is carrying. Date and 30-minute chronograph at 3 o'clock. Day and small seconds at 9. Month, leap year, and seconds at 6.

Moonphase at 12, rendered against a dark blue background with a photorealistic disc that disappears into the dial rather than sitting on top of it.

At 43mm across and 14.94mm thick, the platinum case tips the scales at 108 grams without the strap. That is heavy, but not absurdly so for platinum, and the proportions stay within the Navitimer's familiar silhouette.

The navy-blue alligator strap comes with an 18k white gold folding clasp, and a sapphire caseback reveals the movement's solid gold rotor.

Here is where the B19 story gets interesting for collectors. A platinum perpetual calendar chronograph from Patek Philippe (the 5270P) will set you back north of US$170,000. The A. Lange and Sohne Datograph Perpetual in platinum trades well above that on the secondary market.

Breitling is offering a comparable level of complication, in a comparable case material, for under A$75,000. The movement is not finished to the same obsessive standard as those two, and nobody is pretending otherwise. But the mechanical capability is real, and at this price point in platinum, there is nothing else like it on the market.

The standard-production steel and platinum versions (the ice-blue and the new anthracite dial) start from around A$44,490, making them among the most accessible perpetual calendar chronographs from any Swiss manufacture.

For a brand that spent decades relying on supplied movements for its complicated pieces, the B19 represents a genuine inflection point. The old Navitimer Olympus from the 2000s used a modified ETA with a module and still needed leap year corrections. The B19 is fully integrated, fully in-house, and will not need a calendar adjustment until 2100.

Breitling making a platinum perpetual calendar chronograph limited to 75 pieces is not the kind of sentence you would have read five years ago. The B19 is the brand's clearest statement yet that it wants to be taken seriously in the complication space, not just as the chronograph company with the cool vintage ads.

Whether collectors at this price level agree is the real test, but the watch itself is hard to argue with.

Read the full article Breitling’s Most Complicated Navitimer Just Got Its Most Luxurious Case on DMARGE. Don’t miss it!

Breitling has a track record of Navitimer limited editions, but this one has a sharper story than most. The Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Tribute to Concorde celebrates half a century since the aircraft first entered commercial service with British Airways and Air France on January 21, 1976, and nearly every design decision ties back to the plane itself.

The dial is the headline. Breitling has gone with a deep blue meant to reference the colour of the stratosphere as seen from Concorde's cruising altitude of 60,000 feet, a height where passengers could see the curvature of the Earth. It's paired with contrasting white subdials and a white inner slide rule, a nod to the aircraft's unofficial nickname, "the White Bird." A matching blue alligator strap completes the look.

On paper it reads clean and purposeful, not overdone with tribute details.

The production run is limited to 593 units, a reference to the Rolls-Royce/Snecma Olympus 593 turbojet engines that powered the Concorde to Mach 2. It's a number that's obscure enough to feel considered rather than arbitrary, which is exactly what you want from a limited edition. The engraved caseback carries "One of 593," "Tribute to Concorde," "Jetliner," and "Mach 2," so there's no shortage of commemorative detail on the flip side.

Inside, it runs Breitling's manufacture Calibre B01, the brand's in-house automatic chronograph movement with a 70-hour power reserve and COSC chronometer certification. At this point the B01 is a known quantity in the industry. It's proven, reliable, and gives Breitling a genuine claim to manufacture status that not every brand at this price point can make.

The Navitimer's connection to aviation isn't marketing gloss. Willy Breitling designed the original in 1952 for the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA), and its circular slide rule was a genuine onboard tool for performing flight calculations. It was the de facto pilot's chronograph through the golden age of civil aviation, the same era that produced the Concorde programme.

Scott Carpenter wore one into space. Graham Hill and Jim Clark wore them on the Formula 1 grid. Miles Davis and Serge Gainsbourg wore them because they looked the part. Pairing the Navitimer with the Concorde is one of those tribute concepts that actually makes historical sense rather than just borrowing a famous name.

With standard Navitimer B01 43 models sitting at AUD $13,890 on leather in Australia, expect this limited edition to land somewhere in that neighbourhood, possibly with a small premium given the restricted 593-piece run. Australian pricing hasn't been confirmed yet, but at that range you're getting manufacture chronograph credentials and a genuine story for your money. For context, the recent Aston Martin Aramco Formula One edition in titanium is listed at AUD $15,990, so the Concorde tribute should sit below that.

This is Breitling doing what it does best with the Navitimer: finding a real aviation story, tying the design details to something specific, and keeping the watch itself recognisably classic. The 593-piece number is a nice touch. The blue dial could be genuinely striking in the metal.

And unlike some tribute watches that stretch for a connection, the Navitimer and the Concorde genuinely belong in the same conversation. Whether 593 collectors agree at retail remains to be seen, but the story is sound.

Read the full article Breitling’s Navitimer Limited Concorde Tribute Celebrates A Glorious Era Of Fancy Travel on DMARGE. Don’t miss it!

There are watches that divide opinion, and then there's slapping a Magpie crest on the caseback of a Swiss timepiece. Breitling Oceania has just announced a multi-year partnership with the Collingwood Football Club, and to mark it, they've launched the Superocean 44 Collingwood Limited Edition, restricted to just 125 pieces and available exclusively in Australia.

The watch itself builds on the existing Superocean 44 platform but gets a full Collingwood makeover. The dial runs in black and white (naturally), with 18k red gold accents providing the premium detail that separates this from a standard model.

The Collingwood Magpie crest is engraved on the caseback, which, depending on your AFL allegiance, will either make your heart sing or your stomach turn. The case is stainless steel, the bracelet matches, and you're getting a 38-hour power reserve from the automatic movement inside.

It is worth noting: Breitling hasn't disclosed the specific calibre. The standard Superocean 44 runs a Breitling Calibre 17, which is based on the ETA 2824, and that 38-hour figure lines up. COSC certification is standard across the Breitling lineup, so accuracy shouldn't be a concern regardless.

The limited run of 125 is genuinely small. For context, most "limited edition" sports-partnership watches from brands at this level tend to sit in the 250-500 range.

At 125, Breitling is clearly targeting serious collectors and devoted Collingwood supporters rather than casual fans looking for a team memento. Whether that scarcity translates to secondary market demand depends entirely on how deep the Magpie Army's watch-collecting habit runs.

This isn't the first time a Swiss watch brand has dipped into AFL territory. Hublot had a notable run with the Richmond Tigers, and TAG Heuer has played in the broader Australian sports sponsorship space for years. But Breitling going directly to Collingwood is a calculated move.

The Magpies draw the biggest television audiences and match attendances in the AFL, regularly pulling more than 80,000 fans to games. That's a massive brand-awareness play for Breitling Oceania.

The question, as always with these sports collaborations, is whether the watch transcends the partnership. A Collingwood-branded Superocean will absolutely find 125 buyers in a market this passionate.

But for watch collectors who don't bleed black and white, the appeal thins quickly. It's a Superocean 44 with team colours and a crest, not a new movement, a new complication, or a fundamentally different watch.

This is a smart brand partnership, and for Collingwood diehards who also happen to collect watches, it's a no-brainer. At 125 pieces, it's scarce enough to be desirable, and the 18k red-gold dials add more substance than your average sports tie-in.

But let's be real: this is a tribalism play first and a horological release second. And in a country where your football club allegiance is practically a blood type, that might be exactly enough.

Want to try it on? Book an appointment below.

Read the full article Breitling’s New Collingwood Superocean Might Be the Most Divisive Watch in Australian Sport on DMARGE. Don’t miss it!

If you're reading this, you've probably looked down at your bracelet recently and realised it's not quite the watch you bought. The polished links have gone dull. There's a visible line of grime between every second row. And the less said about what's hiding under the clasp, the better.

You're not alone. Most watch owners don't clean their watches nearly enough, and when they do, it's usually with a toothbrush and dish soap, which is better than nothing but about as effective as washing your car with a garden hose and good intentions.

The solution is a dedicated watch cleaning kit. But the market has exploded with options in the last few years, from $7 polishing cloths to $90 multi-piece kits, and not all of them are worth your money. We've tested the best of them on everything from Rolex to Seiko, steel to ceramic to gold, and these are the ten that actually deliver.

Read the full article The Best Watch Cleaning Kits To Keep Your Timepiece Looking Fresh on DMARGE. Don’t miss it!

If you needed any further proof that Toto Wolff is operating on a completely different frequency to the rest of us, the Mercedes boss was spotted walking around the Albert Park paddock during qualifying wearing not one, but two IWC watches. One on each wrist. Like a man who has simply decided the normal rules don't apply to him anymore.

And look, after locking out the front row with George Russell on pole and Kimi Antonelli right behind him, maybe they don't.

RELATED: Toto Wolff’s New IWC Is Built To Handle More G-Force Than A Formula 1 Car

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When someone from the team called him out on the double wrist situation, Toto didn't flinch. "First one, it's the George watch and it's European time," he said, gesturing to his left wrist. "And that one is local time, you see."

On the left: one of the new George Russell Pilot's Watch editions, the black ceramic IWC released last month in Russell's signature blue colourway, limited to 1,063 pieces. On the right: his own Big Pilot's Watch Shock Absorber XPL, the 44mm Ceratanium piece IWC built specifically for him, limited to 100 pieces. Both in team colours. Both very much IWC.

Here's the thing though. If you actually wanted two time zones on your wrist, there are plenty of watches that do exactly that. A GMT, a world timer, even a dual time complication. IWC makes several. But neither the George Russell Pilot's Watch nor the Big Pilot Shock Absorber XPL have a second time zone function. They're both straight time-and-date pieces. So Toto's "European time, local time" logic doesn't really hold up from a horological standpoint.

But that's not the point, is it? When your watch sponsor makes your team's watches, your driver's watches, and your personal signature edition, why wouldn't you wear two of them around the paddock of a race weekend where your cars just demolished the field by eight tenths?

The Shock Absorber XPL on his right wrist retails for USD $102,000. It features IWC's SPRIN-g PROTECT system, which uses a bulk metallic glass spring to cushion the movement against forces exceeding 30,000g. The George Russell edition on his left is considerably more accessible at USD $12,900 (AU$ 19,000) for the chronograph or $8,900 (AU$ 14,000) for the automatic.

Combined, that's north of $110,000 in IWC on two wrists. At a circuit where his team just reminded everyone why they spent the off-season being called sandbagging favourites.

Two watches, two wrists, two cars on the front row. Toto Wolff isn't just the team principal. He's the main character.

Read the full article Toto Wolff Was Spotted Wearing Two IWC Watches In Melbourne, And His Response Was Peak Toto on DMARGE. Don’t miss it!

Every year the Rolex prediction cycle follows the same pattern. Forums light up, YouTubers start rendering watches that don't exist, and half the predictions are based on anniversaries that Rolex itself couldn't care less about. Then April rolls around, Rolex drops something nobody expected, and everyone pretends they saw it coming.

But if you actually track how Rolex has operated since 2021, a few patterns are genuinely useful. They don't chase anniversaries. They do iterate on new collections fast. And they increasingly use Tudor as a trial balloon for ideas that show up on Rolex a year or two later.

RELATED: The Rolex Pepsi GMT Is Dead. Secondary Market Chaos Has Already Begun

Here's my read on 2026.

This is the safest bet on the board. When Rolex launched the Land-Dweller at Watches & Wonders 2025, its first entirely new collection in over a decade, it arrived deliberately constrained. Two sizes, three materials, one dial colour per material. The honeycomb texture and the big numerals at 6 and 9 copped heat from day one, but Rolex isn't going to ditch the texture this early. That dial pattern is to the Land-Dweller what the tapisserie is to the Royal Oak. Kill it in year two and you've killed the watch's identity before it's even established.

What's far more likely: new colourways, possibly a Rolesor option, and maybe a cleaner dial layout on select references. Rolex already proved they're open to that, because the precious metal versions with diamond indices quietly dropped the numerals. The template exists.

And the real story isn't the case anyway. It's the calibre 7135 and the Dynapulse escapement inside it. That movement is going to spread through the collection. Which brings us to the prediction everyone's making.

The Milgauss turns 70 in 2026 and was discontinued in 2023. On its own, that's not enough. Rolex doesn't do nostalgia for nostalgia's sake, and they let the GMT-Master's 70th pass without a whisper. But the Milgauss has something it didn't have last time around: a reason to exist.

If Rolex derives a no-date calibre from the 7135 (call it the 7130, as Monochrome predicts), you'd have a movement whose Dynapulse escapement is inherently resistant to magnetic fields. That means no more soft iron Faraday cage inside the case. Which means a thinner Milgauss. Which means a watch that actually wears differently to the one they killed three years ago.

That's a proper technical story, not a birthday cake. And if the red lightning bolt seconds hand comes back (it should), you've got one of the most distinctive watches in the lineup.

This happens every year and 2026 won't be different. Last year brought PVD ombre dials. Expect textured patterns, possibly new semi-precious stones, and at least one green option for the Day-Date's 70th. Rolex has form here. Green-bezel Sub for its 50th in 2003. Green-bezel GMT for its 50th in 2005. Olive green Day-Date dials for its 60th in 2016. A jade or malachite President dial would be very on-brand.

Coronet magazine makes the sharpest observation in the entire prediction cycle: the most reliable way to guess what Rolex will do is to look at what Tudor just did. Both brands introduced steel GMT Pepsis in 2018. Tudor recently dropped a Ranger with a light dial, which makes a white-dial Explorer a low-effort addition. Tudor put the Black Bay Chrono on a Jubilee bracelet, which raises obvious questions about the Daytona.

Both moves require minimal production changes, which matters when Rolex's manufacturing is running at full tilt.

The Explorer II turns 50 this year, and the current ref. 226570 is one of the easiest Rolex sport watches to buy at retail. In Rolex world, availability is not a compliment. It means demand isn't there. The 42mm maxi-case has been polarising since 2011, and the collectors who love the 5-digit references have been vocal about what's been lost: a smaller case, a slimmer profile, a dial that isn't trying so hard.

Whether Rolex acts on the anniversary is uncertain (see below), but the commercial case for a refresh is strong regardless of the calendar.

Rolex doesn't treat anniversaries the way fans want them to.

The Datejust turned 80 in 2025 and got nothing. The Submariner's 70th in 2023 produced a minor bezel hue tweak with no press release. The Oyster Perpetual's 100th anniversary sounds monumental on paper, but there's no real signal it gets a dedicated model.

The most recent anniversary Rolex actually marked with a new watch wasn't even its own. It was the 100th running of Le Mans.

RELATED: The Rolex Everyone Is Buying In 2025

The most consistent pattern Rolex has shown over the past five years isn't about specific models or anniversaries. It's that they always bring at least one thing nobody predicted. The Land-Dweller last year. The left-handed "Destro" GMT in 2023. The T-Swiss-T Submariner dial tweak that year. If the entire prediction list makes sense, something on it is wrong.

Watches & Wonders runs April 14-20. Place your bets.

Read the full article What Rolex Will Release In 2026… Based On What They’ve Actually Done Over The Past Five Years on DMARGE. Don’t miss it!

Buying a gift for a watch person is either the easiest thing in the world or an absolute nightmare. Easy, because they'll happily accept another watch. Nightmare, because the one they actually want costs more than your car. And nobody wants a Fossil.

The good news is the watch world is full of gear, tools and accessories that collectors genuinely use but would never think to buy themselves. We're talking proper cleaning kits, Swiss-made tools that don't scratch your lugs, travel rolls that mean you can stop wrapping a Submariner in a hotel sock like a psychopath.

Whether it's a birthday, Christmas, or you just need to earn some serious brownie points, these 10 picks cover every budget and every level of obsession. Hand on heart, I'd want any of them.

RELATED: How To Keep Almost Every Watch Looking Like New

Read the full article 10 Awesome Gifts For Watch Enthusiasts on DMARGE. Don’t miss it!

WatchPro has confirmed that Rolex has officially pulled the pin on the steel GMT Master II with the iconic red and blue "Pepsi" bezel, being notified by authorised dealers that no more deliveries are coming.

Customers still on waiting lists are being told, politely but firmly, to start looking at other models.

And just like that, one of the most hyped steel sports watches of the last decade is done. Or is it?

Now, before anyone starts panic-buying on Chrono24, let's take a breath.

This happens every single year. The weeks leading into Watches and Wonders are peak season for discontinuation rumours, dealer whispers, and references quietly vanishing from websites.

It's the watch world's version of silly season, and the Pepsi has been the subject of "it's being killed off" speculation since at least 2023. Every year the rumours swirl. Every year people lose their minds. And most of the time, what actually happens is Rolex retires a reference only to replace it with something updated at the Geneva show weeks later.

RELATED: Rolex GMT-Master II In Pepsi Colours & Stainless Steel Is The Modern Traveller's Watch

Which raises the obvious question: why would Rolex kill one of its most popular models? The Pepsi GMT is arguably the single most desired steel sports watch in the entire Rolex catalogue. It's the one that built AD relationships, the one that launched a thousand waitlists, the one that turned casual watch buyers into full-blown collectors. You don't just bin that kind of cultural cachet. You evolve it.

Then there's the production issue narrative, which has been floating around for a couple of years now. The story goes that Rolex was struggling with high failure rates on the red and blue ceramic bezels, that firing two colours into a single ceramic insert at scale was proving too difficult to maintain consistently. And look, it's plausible on the surface.

Two-tone ceramic is genuinely tricky to produce. But Rolex has been making this bezel since 2018. That's seven years of production. The idea that they've suddenly hit an insurmountable manufacturing wall after nearly a decade feels like a stretch, and it's worth noting that nobody has ever actually confirmed these production problems on the record.

What's far more likely is that Rolex is doing what Rolex always does: clearing the decks ahead of Watches and Wonders 2026. Kill the current reference, let the secondary market lose its collective mind for a few weeks, then unveil a new generation Pepsi with a tweaked case, a new movement, or some other incremental update that justifies a fresh reference number and, inevitably, a higher retail price.

RELATED: Rolex GMT-Master Buyers Guide: Everything You Need To Know

In the meantime, the secondary market is doing exactly what you'd expect. EveryWatch data shows median dealer prices for the Pepsi have spiked from around $48,500 AUD at the start of the year to roughly $50,700 AUD now.

The retail price, for anyone keeping score at home, is about $19,900 AUD. So you're looking at a watch trading at roughly two and a half times retail, and that gap is only going to widen now that supply has officially been cut off. The ripple effect is already hitting the rest of the GMT lineup too. The "Batgirl" (black and blue bezel on a Jubilee bracelet) has surged to just under $40,400 AUD on the secondary market, more than double its retail price. When one reference dies, the others absorb the demand. It's Rolex economics 101.

So if you own a Pepsi, hold it. If you were on a waitlist, commiserations. And if you think this is truly the end of the red and blue bezel, well, I'd bet good money we'll be looking at a brand new one come April.

Read the full article The Rolex Pepsi GMT Is Dead. Secondary Market Chaos Has Already Begun on DMARGE. Don’t miss it!

According to Morgan Stanley and LuxeConsult's annual Swiss Watcher report, the Crown pushed its sales up 4 percent to crack CHF 11 billion (roughly $14 billion AUD) for the first time ever.

That's a staggering number on its own, but here's the kicker: Rolex actually put fewer watches into the market to get there. Production dropped 2 percent, marking the second consecutive year of declining output, something that hasn't happened in over two decades.

Let that sink in. Fewer watches. More money. That's not just brand power; that's pricing power, and Rolex is wielding it like nobody else in the game.

RELATED: Rolex Waitlists Are Finally Cracking

Perhaps the most jaw-dropping stat buried in the report is this: Rolex accounted for roughly 33 percent of the entire Swiss watch industry's sales last year, shifting around one million pieces in the process. One brand. A third of everything. That's dominance on a level that would make most CEOs quietly weep into their quarterly earnings.

And Rolex, predictably, had nothing to say about it. The brand declined to comment on the report's findings, which is very on-brand for a company that lets its numbers, and its waitlists, do the talking.

Rolex wasn't the only one having a good year, mind you. Cartier slotted in at second with sales hitting around $4.5 billion, likely buoyed by the seemingly unstoppable popularity of the Tank. Audemars Piguet came third, pulling in $3.3 billion from just 53,000 watches, which, if you do the maths, works out to an average north of $62,000 per piece. Not bad for a brand whose entire identity revolves around one octagonal watch.

Patek Philippe climbed to fourth with $3.2 billion from 72,000 units, while Omega slipped to fifth at $2.8 billion. Swatch Group, Omega's parent company, wasn't thrilled with the report, claiming Morgan Stanley's numbers were based on "wrong estimations, assumptions, data, figures, and statements." A denial so thorough it almost wraps back around to being an admission.

And then there's Richard Mille, which continues to exist in its own absurd universe. The brand sold just 5,950 watches in 2025 and still managed to generate $4.1 billion. That's an average of nearly $689,000 per watch. If that doesn't make you question everything about the luxury market, nothing will.

Zoom out and the Swiss watch industry's trajectory becomes crystal clear: fewer watches, higher prices, bigger margins. Total production in 2025 hit 14.6 million units, literally half of what the industry was churning out in 2011. Meanwhile, watches priced above $64,000 (CHF 50,000) now account for 89 percent of the industry's growth, despite making up just 1.4 percent of all timepieces produced.

In other words, the ultra-luxury segment isn't just propping up the Swiss watch industry. It is the Swiss watch industry. Everyone else is fighting over scraps.

With Watches and Wonders 2026 just around the corner, expect the big players to double down on exactly this strategy: fewer pieces, higher price points, and waitlists that stretch into the next decade. For Rolex, though, the real flex isn't what's coming next. It's that they've already lapped the field without breaking a sweat.

RELATED: The Rolex Everyone Is Buying In 2025

Read the full article Rolex Sold A Staggering Number Of Watches In 2025 on DMARGE. Don’t miss it!

TAG Heuer is kicking off the 2026 Formula 1 season with a connected watch instead of a mechanical chronograph, and it might be the smartest thing the brand has done with the Connected line yet.

The TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E5 45mm x Formula 1 is a special edition built around a dedicated F1 digital experience that goes properly deep. We're not talking about a branded dial and red pushers here. This is a full F1 app on your wrist, with real-time Grand Prix schedules, post-race results, and live driver and team standings pulled directly from race data.

The hero watch face is called Race Track, and it automatically updates for each of the 24 Grand Prix weekends. You get the country flag, race name, and actual circuit silhouette on the dial, with a moving dot that traces the track outline as the seconds pass. It's a small thing, but it gives the face a sense of movement that most digital watch faces completely lack.

Smart widgets serve up key updates without opening the app, and notifications arrive styled like pit radio comms, complete with branded sounds and icons. If you're the kind of person who checks their phone 40 times during qualifying, this removes at least half of those.

RELATED: TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E5 Review

The case is 45mm of brushed and sandblasted Grade 2 titanium with a black DLC coating, running a 1.39-inch AMOLED display at 454x454 resolution. The curved bezel is black polished ceramic with the phases of a Grand Prix weekend engraved around the edge, which is a better use of bezel real estate than most connected watches manage.

The pushers get black DLC with red lacquer accents, and the caseback carries a heart rate sensor alongside the red F1 logo. It sounds like a small detail, but it's the difference between a partnership that's integrated into the watch and one that's just stamped on the dial.

Two straps come in the box. The first is black leather over a rubber base with a carbon pattern and red stitching. The second is a stretch textile with a self-fastening closure, built for training and sleep tracking. Good call, including both, because nobody wants to run in a leather strap and nobody wants to wear stretch textile to dinner.

TAG Heuer is using the Calibre E5 platform with Qualcomm's Snapdragon 5100+ chipset on TAG Heuer OS. Health and fitness tracking covers the full spread: heart rate, SpO2, breathing rate, sleep, plus the usual accelerometer, gyroscope, compass, and barometer. GPS is dual-band across GPS, GLONASS, BeiDou, QZSS, and Galileo, which matters if you actually train with it and want your runs tracked properly rather than approximated.

Battery life sits at two days in normal use, three in low power mode. Fast charging gets you a full day from roughly 30 minutes on the charger, which is the kind of real-world detail that matters more than any spec sheet number.

At $3,850 AUD, the price is consistent with the rest of the Connected line. What separates this from a standard model with a new strap is the depth of the F1 integration.

The dedicated app, the race-by-race face updates, the pit radio notifications. TAG Heuer held the Official Timekeeper role for F1 from 1992 to 2003 before picking it back up, and they launched the first luxury connected watch in 2015, so this sits at the intersection of two things the brand actually has form in.

It lands in March 2026, with 48 hours of early access on the TAG Heuer website from March 3. The packaging is fully motorsport themed with soft-touch black surfaces and a checkered flag design, and the unboxing is staged in a way that suggests someone at TAG Heuer actually thought about the experience beyond the watch itself.

Want to get your hands on it? Enquire below.

Read the full article TAG Heuer’s New Connected Watch Turns Your Wrist Into a Live F1 Pit Wall on DMARGE. Don’t miss it!

The Portugieser Chronograph gets its first all-black treatment, and IWC's proprietary material makes sure it stays that way.

The Portugieser Chronograph has been one of IWC Schaffhausen's most recognisable watches since it launched in 1998. Two vertically stacked subdials, a clean inner flange with a quarter-second scale, and that unmistakable blend of dressy proportions with sporty intent. It's a design that hasn't needed much tweaking over the years, which is usually a sign that something was done right from the start.

Now IWC has done something it's never done before: wrapped the whole thing in Ceratanium and blacked it out completely.

The Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium (Ref. IW371631) is limited to 1,500 pieces and features a 41mm case, crown, and pushers all crafted from IWC's proprietary material.

For the unfamiliar, Ceratanium is a special titanium alloy that gets fired at high temperatures in a kiln, producing a finish that combines the lightness of titanium with scratch resistance approaching ceramic. The result is a deep, dark metallic surface that sits somewhere between matte and mirror, and it photographs incredibly well.

The commitment to the all-black theme runs deeper than the case. The dial is black. The appliques are black. The hands are black. The Arabic numerals, indices, and quarter-second scale are all there, but they read as subtle raised textures against the dial surface rather than contrasting elements.

IWC's Creative Director Christian Knoop put it well when he said the execution emphasises the chronograph's shape alone, ensuring nothing distracts from its silhouette. It's a bold design choice that strips the Portugieser back to pure form, and it works because the underlying architecture is strong enough to carry it.

A black rubber strap with a square pattern rounds out what is a genuinely monolithic-looking watch. It's a brute build for your wrist.

Inside sits IWC's manufacture 69355 calibre, a proper column-wheel chronograph movement. The column-wheel mechanism is the good stuff when it comes to chronograph switching, delivering clearly defined phases and that satisfying tactile click through the pushers that collectors appreciate. An automatic double-pawl winding system builds up a 46-hour power reserve.

It's a robust, reliable engine that's already proven itself across IWC's chronograph range, and it's a smart choice for a limited edition that's meant to be worn rather than stored.

No Australian pricing confirmed yet, but given the standard Portugieser Chronograph sits around the $12,000 AUD mark, expect the Ceratanium edition to command a premium above that.

Read the full article IWC’s Most Popular Chronograph Just Went Full Stealth In Scratch-Proof Ceratanium on DMARGE. Don’t miss it!

The Geneva Maison celebrates its 50th anniversary by dressing its most acclaimed collection in tuxedo-inspired dials, and the result is one of the most compelling watches under $2,500.

The Millesime Small Seconds already had form. It took home the Challenge Prize at the 2023 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève, an award reserved for the best watches under CHF 2,000, which put Raymond Weil in rare company for an independent, family-owned brand competing against the usual Swiss heavyweights.

Now, as the Maison turns 50, it's given that same watch a new wardrobe, and it's a sharp one.

The 2026 Millesime Small Seconds draws on the tuxedo dial, a design rooted in the Art Deco era that's quietly making a comeback across the industry. The concept is simple: bold two-tone contrasts that split the dial into light and dark zones, much like the lapel and shirt of a well-cut dinner suit. It's formal without being stuffy, detailed without being busy.

Three colourways tell the story. The black and white (ref. 2930-STC-05642) is the purist's pick, all classic evening-wear energy with a cream centre against a glossy black hour ring.

The midnight blue and black (ref. 2930-STC-05502) is moodier, deeper, with that same formal backbone but a richer warmth to it.

And then there's the red grape with light grey (ref. 2930-STC-05450), which is the curveball of the trio, more contemporary, more adventurous, and the one that'll likely get people talking.

Look closer and there's genuine craft in the layering here. The centre of each dial is vertically satin-brushed with a structural crosshair and a raw V-shaped groove cut through it, a nod to the industrial side of Art Deco that most brands tend to overlook.

The glossy lacquered index ring sits on top, creating a contrast in both colour and texture, whilst the azure minute track adds a sense of lightness around the perimeter. The small seconds subdial at 6 o'clock sits recessed within an opaline ring, giving the whole dial a sense of depth that you don't often see at this price point.

Above it all sits a domed glassbox sapphire crystal, a vintage-inspired touch that catches light beautifully and gives the watch a rounded, almost pillowy profile from the side.

The obelisk-shaped hands are treated with Super-LumiNova for low-light legibility, and at 39mm across and just 10.25mm thick, the case wears slim and comfortable on the wrist.

Raymond Weil has always occupied an interesting position in Swiss watchmaking. Founded in 1976 and still family-run under CEO Elie Bernheim, the founder's grandson, it's one of the few independent Geneva houses that hasn't been absorbed into a luxury conglomerate.

That matters, because it means decisions like this, putting genuine design ambition into a sub-$2,500 watch, are made on their own terms.

The RW4251 movement inside is a mechanical self-winding calibre with a 41-hour power reserve. It's visible through a sapphire caseback, where you'll also spot the brand's signature W-shaped oscillating weight.

Each reference comes on a calfskin leather strap with tone-on-tone stitching and a subtle W-shaped stitch detail, though a stainless steel bracelet option is also available.

At $2,295 USD (around $2,250 EUR), this is serious Swiss watchmaking at an accessible price. The GPHG win wasn't a fluke, and these new tuxedo dials prove the Millesime has more chapters in it yet.

Read the full article Raymond Weil’s Award-Winning Millesime Just Got a Black-Tie Makeover on DMARGE. Don’t miss it!

A. Lange & Söhne has officially planted its flag in Sydney, opening a three-storey flagship boutique at 129 King Street that might just be the most impressive watch retail space in the country.

The German manufacture, which cranks out only a few thousand wristwatches a year from its base in the tiny Saxon town of Glashütte, opened the doors late last year.

At 306 square metres spread across three floors, it's a serious statement of intent for the Australian market, and a signal that Lange sees enough demand down here to justify giving local collectors a proper home rather than routing everything through ADs.

We swung through for a tour in January, and here's what you need to know.

The ground floor does what you'd expect: clean lines, carefully lit vitrines along the walls, and a feature showcase near the entrance running through the core families. LANGE 1, ODYSSEUS, ZEITWERK, 1815, and SAXONIA.

What's worth noting is that the Sydney boutique will carry flagship-exclusive models you won't find at authorised dealers, which alone makes it worth a visit if you're serious about getting your hands on something from the current catalogue without joining a waitlist elsewhere.

Head upstairs to the first floor and you'll find a retail and lounge area with a dedicated private room for Lange's top clients. The centrepiece here is the Wall of Parts, displaying all 567 components of the Triple Split movement, which remains one of the most technically ambitious chronographs ever made. It's the kind of thing that'll stop even casual watch fans in their tracks.

The second floor is where it gets properly impressive. This is VIP territory: custom banquette seating, a long bar counter, and what Lange calls its Experience Library. A salon-style space with curated artworks, rotating exhibits, and reading materials tracing the brand's history.

The whole library is framed by a dramatic feature wall composed of in-house movements, and hand on heart, standing in front of it gives you a genuine appreciation for the depth of finishing and engineering that goes into every calibre. It's one thing to read about German silver three-quarter plates and hand-engraved balance cocks. It's another to see dozens of them laid out in front of you like a horological art installation.

"Thanks to our strong community of Lange friends in Australia, our craftsmanship from Glashütte can now be experienced on the other side of the globe," Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid said.

For anyone unfamiliar, A. Lange & Söhne was founded in 1845 by Ferdinand Adolph Lange before being effectively wiped out by post-war expropriation in East Germany. Walter Lange, the founder's great-grandson, relaunched the brand in 1990, and it's since developed 75 manufacture calibres, all finished and assembled by hand. Every watch is cased in gold or platinum, with the sole exception of the sporty ODYSSEUS, which arrived in stainless steel in 2019.

The new Sydney boutique is located at 129 King Street in the CBD.

Read the full article A. Lange & Söhne Just Opened Its Most Ambitious Boutique Right Here In Sydney on DMARGE. Don’t miss it!

Here's the thing about us watch collectors. We'll spend three months agonising over whether to buy a piece, fly interstate to try it on, read every forum thread ever written about it, and then wear it daily without cleaning it once.

We treat the purchase like a sacred ritual but the maintenance like an afterthought. And it shows.

I pulled a bracelet off a Tudor the other day to swap in a strap and nearly dry-retched. Months of dead skin, sweat, sunscreen and what I can only describe as inner-city grime had built up between the lugs, hidden by the end links like a dirty secret. This is a watch I wear to nice restaurants. To meetings. To places where people can see me. And underneath? Filthy. Absolutely filthy.

So let's talk about how to actually clean a watch properly. It's not complicated, it doesn't take long, and there's really no excuse for walking around with a timepiece that looks like it's been through a tradie's toolbox.

Every watch is a magnet for grime. The case, the bezel, the crown, the bracelet or strap, the clasp, the space between the lugs.

Everywhere that metal meets metal or metal meets skin, there's an opportunity for sweat, oil, dead skin cells, food residue and general city pollution to settle in and make itself comfortable. The areas you can't see are almost always the worst offenders. Under the clasp. Between bracelet links. Around the crown tube where the winding stem enters the case. Between the case and the strap attachment points. If you haven't looked at those spots on your watch recently, brace yourself.

And it's not just a cosmetic problem. Built-up grime can actually cause damage over time. On metal bracelets, trapped moisture and salt from sweat can accelerate corrosion, particularly on lower-grade steels.

On leather straps, oils and sweat break down the material and cause cracking. On rubber and silicone, sunscreen and insect repellent can degrade the material faster than you'd think.

Before you start scrubbing anything, you need to know what you're working with, because different materials have very different tolerances.

Stainless steel is the workhorse of the watch world. Everything from a Seiko Presage to a Rolex Submariner uses it, and it handles cleaning well. It's tough, corrosion-resistant and forgiving. But brushed surfaces need gentle, directional cleaning to avoid disrupting the grain, and polished surfaces will show swirl marks if you use the wrong cloth or too much pressure.

Gold is a different story entirely. It's soft, and it scratches far more easily than steel. Yellow gold, white gold, rose gold: they all have different alloy compositions, but they share that vulnerability to micro-scratches.

See how to clean a gold watch below.

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A Rolex Day-Date in yellow gold or a Patek Philippe Calatrava needs to be treated with kid gloves. White gold has a rhodium plating that can wear off over time, and aggressive cleaning will speed that up. Rose gold contains copper in the alloy, which can react to certain chemicals. The rule with gold is simple: less pressure, always.

Titanium is lighter than steel and resistant to corrosion, which is why it shows up on tool watches like the Tudor Pelagos and various Grand Seiko models. But it scratches more easily than steel, and matte-finished titanium surfaces are particularly sensitive to abrasion. Light pressure only, and avoid anything that could polish away that matte texture.

Ceramic is the quiet achiever. Brands like Omega, Zenith, Hublot and IWC use it for everything from bezels to full cases. It's scratch-resistant, lightweight, hypoallergenic and doesn't tarnish. But it's also brittle. It won't scratch, but it can chip or crack if you're careless. Cleaning should be gentle: soft brush, appropriate cleaner, no soaking, NO ultrasonic machines.

And then there's sapphire crystal. The glass on your watch face (on anything remotely decent, at least) is almost certainly sapphire. It's incredibly hard and resistant to scratching, but it loves fingerprints. A quick wipe with a microfibre cloth usually does the job, but for stubborn smudges you'll want a proper cleaning solution.

If the case is the face of your watch, the bracelet or strap is the underwear. And like underwear, most people don't clean it nearly often enough.

Metal bracelets come in several styles, and each has its own cleaning quirks. The Oyster-style bracelet (popularised by Rolex) has wide, flat surfaces that are easy to wipe down, but dirt loves to collect around the clasp and end links. Jubilee-style bracelets are flexible and comfortable but have lots of small surfaces that trap grime in every gap.

Beads of Rice and Milanese mesh bracelets are the worst offenders: the tight weave traps skin, dust and residue deep within the structure and requires regular upkeep to stay presentable. A blast of compressed air can help dislodge debris from mesh bracelets before you go in with a brush.

Rubber and silicone straps are popular on dive watches and sporty pieces. They're comfortable and water-friendly but attract lint, dust and can develop a greyish film from sweat and sunscreen buildup. Warm water and a soft brush will sort most of that out, but a proper cleaning solution makes a noticeable difference.

Leather straps are the most delicate!!!!!

Never submerge them. Never soak them. Even minimal moisture can damage stitching, adhesives or cause the leather to deteriorate, warp or develop mould. The best approach is a slightly damp cloth with a gentle cleaner, followed immediately by drying. Leather conditioner applied sparingly can help extend the life of the strap, but most leather bands are ultimately consumable items that you'll replace every year or two.

NATO and fabric straps are actually the least hygienic option according to research, trapping more bacteria than any other strap material. The upside is they're cheap and machine-washable (on a gentle cycle in a mesh bag, air dry).

The process itself is straightforward. What matters is using the right products and the right technique.

Start by removing the bracelet or strap if you can do it safely. This lets you clean the case and bracelet separately and gets into those hidden areas between the lugs and behind the end links. If you're not confident doing this, leave it attached and work around it carefully.

Use a proper watch cleaning solution, not dish soap, not Windex, not whatever random household cleaner is under your sink. You need something pH-neutral and formulated specifically for the materials on your watch.

This is where the HEIST Watch Cleaner Kit comes in, and hand on heart, it's the best option I've found. The formula is all-natural, pH-neutral, and safe for stainless steel, gold, titanium, ceramic, sapphire, rubber and leather. It uses de-ionised water as a base with sodium citrate to break down grime, soybean extracts for natural degreasing, and no harsh chemicals whatsoever. It won't corrode finishes, strip protective coatings or compromise gaskets.

The kit comes with an 80ml bottle of cleaning solution, a soft-bristle brush that bends to reach awkward spots (around crowns, between links, under bezel lips), and a microfibre cloth covered in a cheeky print of guns, jewels and balaclavas (the brand is called HEIST, after all). The whole thing packs into a resealable pouch that fits in hand luggage, which is genuinely useful if you travel with watches.

Apply the solution to the cloth or brush. Work it gently around the case, bezel, crown, caseback and bracelet. Use the brush between links, around the clasp and in the gaps around the lugs. For ceramic watches, use short controlled strokes and let the solution do the heavy lifting rather than applying pressure. For gold, go lighter again. Always brush along the grain on brushed surfaces.

Wipe off any remaining residue with a clean damp cloth, then pat everything dry with a fresh microfibre cloth. Let the watch air dry completely before wearing or storing it. The whole process takes about two to three minutes, and the difference is immediately obvious.

For Americans it's on Amazon US. For Australia it's on Amazon AU. Or use Amazon US for rest of world shipping.

After every wear: a quick wipe with a microfibre cloth on the case sides, clasp and underside of the bracelet. This removes fresh oils and sweat before they set. It takes ten seconds and prevents the kind of buildup that requires more aggressive cleaning later.

Weekly: if you're wearing the same watch daily, especially in summer or humid conditions, do a light clean with your HEIST kit. Focus on the clasp, end links and any area where skin contact is highest.

Monthly: a full clean with the kit, ideally with the bracelet removed. This is when you go after all the hidden spots and get everything back to looking like it just came out of the boutique.

You wouldn't drive a $100,000 car without washing it. You wouldn't wear a $5,000 suit without dry cleaning it. But plenty of people walk around wearing five and six-figure watches that haven't been properly cleaned since the day they bought them.

It doesn't take expensive equipment. It doesn't require a watchmaker. It just requires a couple of minutes, the right kit, and a basic sense of self-respect not to walk into a room wearing a dirty watch.

Read the full article How To Keep Almost Every Watch Looking Like New on DMARGE. Don’t miss it!

If you'd told watch nerds five years ago that Jacob & Co. would one day top a Morgan Stanley growth chart, they'd have laughed you out of the room. For a long time, Jacob & Co. was the brand you associated with rapper chains, diamond-encrusted everything, and watches that looked like they belonged in a Dubai nightclub rather than a serious collection.

But while the Swiss watch industry was busy contracting in 2025, with export volumes sliding and most of the big names treading water, Jacob & Co. quietly posted the strongest performance of any brand in the Top 50.

According to the Ninth Annual Swiss Watcher report from Morgan Stanley (which is basically the financial bible of the watch world), Jacob & Co. grew revenue by 14% year-over-year to an implied retail value of CHF 288 million ($372,670 USD). They shifted 3,975 timepieces, a 24% increase in units sold. Both of those figures are the highest growth rates among the entire Top 50. The brand now sits at number 27 globally by turnover.

Let that sink in for a second. In a year where the industry was going backwards, Jacob & Co. wasn't just surviving. They were lapping the field.

The short answer is they got serious. The longer answer involves a genuine strategic overhaul that's been years in the making.

Jacob & Co. began expanding its product line beyond the blinged-out astronomical pieces it was known for. They introduced collections at more accessible price points (and by accessible, we mean "accessible for a luxury Swiss watch brand," so don't get too excited).

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At the same time, they doubled down on their ultra-high-complication offerings, the kind of horological madness that gets collectors and industry insiders paying attention for the right reasons.

They also modernised their distribution model, which in watch industry speak means they got smarter about where and how they sell.

The watch world loves a redemption arc, and Jacob & Co. is writing one of the better ones we've seen in recent years. Founded by Jacob Arabo, the brand is now approaching its 40th anniversary, and the timing of this milestone couldn't be better.

What makes this story interesting isn't just the numbers, it's the context. The Swiss watch industry had a rough 2025. Export volumes dropped, consumer confidence wobbled, US tariffs hit, and even some of the heavyweight maisons were feeling the pinch. For a brand that plenty of collectors had written off as a novelty act to emerge as the fastest growing name on the list is, hand on heart, one of the more surprising watch stories of the year.

Benjamin Arabo, who shared the news with partners, put it pretty honestly: "I know, as a brand we are not perfect, but we work hard every day to do our best and continue to improve." It's not the kind of polished corporate nonsense you usually get from luxury brands, and for that reason alone, it's worth paying attention to what Jacob & Co. does next.

Whether you're a fan of the brand or not, you can't argue with the numbers. And in an industry that often feels like it's running on heritage fumes and waiting list hype, there's something refreshing about a brand that's actually growing because it changed its approach rather than just its prices.

Read the full article The Fastest Growing Watch Brand In The World Isn’t Who You Think It Is on DMARGE. Don’t miss it!

Let me start with something that still catches people off guard every time I mention it at dinner parties: Rolex, the single most recognisable luxury brand on the planet, is owned by a charitable trust. Not a billionaire family. Not a publicly traded conglomerate. Not some private equity mob in a glass tower. A charity.

Hand on heart, when I first found out about this I thought someone was having me on.

The company that makes the Daytona, a watch that routinely sells for two, three, sometimes ten times its retail price, is technically a non-profit organisation. And the story of how it got there is one of the strangest, most fascinating tales in the entire luxury industry.

The whole thing begins with Hans Wilsdorf, a German-born orphan who moved to London in 1903 and started importing Swiss watch movements. He was in his early twenties, already sharp as a tack, and he had this radical idea that wristwatches (which at the time were considered a bit of a novelty, something women wore) could replace pocket watches for men.

In 1905, he co-founded Wilsdorf and Davis with his brother-in-law, Alfred Davis. The name was about as exciting as a tax return, and Wilsdorf knew it. He wanted something short, easy to pronounce in any language, and that looked good printed on a watch dial. He reportedly went through hundreds of letter combinations before landing on "Rolex" in 1908. There's no deep meaning behind it. He just liked the way it sounded. Sometimes the best brand names come from someone sitting on a train mumbling syllables to themselves.

By 1919, Wilsdorf had relocated the company to Geneva, partly because of the Swiss watchmaking ecosystem and partly because Britain had imposed heavy import duties on watch cases during World War I.

From Geneva, he built Rolex into a powerhouse of technical innovation. The Oyster case in 1926 gave the world its first truly waterproof wristwatch. The Perpetual rotor, introduced in 1931, introduced the self-winding mechanism that's still the backbone of mechanical watches today. The Datejust in 1945 was the first watch to automatically display the date on the dial.

Wilsdorf wasn't just a watchmaker. He was a marketing genius decades before the term existed. He strapped a Rolex to a woman named Mercedes Gleitze who swam the English Channel. He put them on the wrists of mountaineers heading for Everest. He understood, long before anyone else in the watch industry, that a watch wasn't just a tool. It was a story you wore on your wrist.

Here's the thing about Hans Wilsdorf: he was driven, obsessive, brilliant, but also deeply private and, by many accounts, increasingly lonely in his later years.

His wife, Florence May Wilsdorf-Crotty, died in 1944. They had no children. And this is where the Rolex story takes its unusual turn.

In 1944, the same year Florence died, Wilsdorf established the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation in Geneva. And in 1960, he transferred full ownership of Rolex to this foundation. Then, in 1960, he also died, and the foundation became the sole owner of one of the world's most valuable companies.

A man built one of the greatest luxury brands in history, and instead of selling it, floating it on the stock exchange, or handing it down to relatives, he gave the whole lot to a charitable trust. No family dynasty. No shareholders screaming for quarterly returns. No board of investors pushing for cost-cutting or brand extensions into perfume and handbags.

Just a foundation, sitting quietly in Geneva, owning Rolex outright.

The Hans Wilsdorf Foundation is structured under Swiss law as a private foundation. It's the sole owner of both Rolex SA (the company that makes and sells the watches) and Montres Tudor SA (the sister brand that most of us know simply as Tudor).

Now, "non-profit" can be a misleading term here, and I want to be straight about that. Rolex the company absolutely makes a profit. A massive one. We're talking estimated annual revenues north of 10 billion Swiss francs. They're not running a soup kitchen. The watches cost what they cost, the waiting lists are what they are, and the margins are enormous.

The "non-profit" part refers to the foundation itself. The Hans Wilsdorf Foundation is a charitable entity, which means the profits generated by Rolex flow up to the foundation, which then distributes money to charitable causes, primarily in education, culture, and social welfare in Geneva and across Switzerland. The foundation also reinvests heavily back into Rolex to fund research, development, and manufacturing, which is one of the reasons Rolex can take such a long-term view on everything it does.

Because here's the crucial bit that most people miss: since Rolex has no external shareholders, it has absolutely zero obligation to deliver short-term financial returns to anyone. There's no quarterly earnings call. There's no activist investor demanding they cut costs or chase trends. There's no pressure to dilute the brand or rush products to market.

This is why Rolex can spend a decade developing a new movement. This is why they can manufacture their own steel, their own gold alloys, and even their own ceramic bezels. This is why they vertically integrate to a degree that would make most CEOs faint. And this is why they've maintained an almost freakish consistency in quality, design, and brand positioning for the better part of a century.

When people in the watch industry discuss why Rolex dominates, they talk about heritage, marketing, build quality, resale value. All true. But the structural advantage of being owned by a charitable foundation almost never gets the attention it deserves.

Think about what happens when a luxury brand goes public or gets acquired by a conglomerate. Suddenly there are targets to hit. Growth expectations. Pressure to expand into new categories, new markets, new price points. You see it everywhere: fashion houses that once stood for something specific now slap their logo on everything from sneakers to hotel rooms. Watch brands that were once exclusive start pumping out volume to satisfy investor appetite.

The foundation structure means the company can be run for the long term, prioritising brand equity and product quality over short-term revenue growth. It can say no to things. It can move slowly. It can keep production deliberately below demand, which (whether you think the artificial scarcity thing is a genuine supply issue or a strategic choice) has created the most powerful secondary market in the watch world.

And it can pay its people properly. Rolex is consistently ranked as one of the best employers in Switzerland, and they invest enormous amounts in training, facilities, and working conditions. When your owner is a charity, the pressure to squeeze every last franc out of the operation simply doesn't exist in the same way.

Of course, there's a flip side to all this, and I'd be lying if I said it was all sunshine and philanthropy. The Hans Wilsdorf Foundation operates with very little public transparency. Swiss foundation law doesn't require the same level of disclosure as, say, a publicly listed company or even a charity in the UK or Australia.

We don't really know the full extent of the foundation's charitable activities. We don't know exactly how much money flows where. And we don't know the precise mechanisms by which the foundation's board makes decisions about Rolex's direction.

Some critics argue that the foundation structure is, at least in part, a tax optimisation strategy. Swiss foundations enjoy significant tax advantages, and by routing everything through the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation, the Rolex empire avoids many of the tax obligations that would apply to a conventional corporate structure.

Whether you see that as shrewd estate planning by a man who wanted to protect his life's work, or as a convenient loophole dressed up in charitable clothing, probably depends on your general disposition toward billionaires and their financial arrangements.

But here's what I keep coming back to: whatever the tax implications, the practical effect on the product has been extraordinary. Rolex has been able to operate with a level of independence, patience, and quality obsession that is genuinely rare in the modern business world.

And the foundation has, by all accounts, donated significant sums to charitable causes in Geneva and beyond over the decades, including schools, hospitals, arts organisations, and social programmes.

You'd think, given how spectacularly well this model has worked for Rolex, that other luxury brands would be falling over themselves to replicate it. But they haven't. And the reasons are pretty obvious when you think about it.

First, most brand founders want to get paid.

Building a luxury empire and then handing it to a charity requires a very specific combination of wealth, childlessness, and philosophical conviction that isn't exactly common. Wilsdorf had no heirs and seemingly no interest in creating a dynasty. Most people in his position do.

Second, the foundation model only works if you're already generating massive cash flows. Rolex was already enormously successful when Wilsdorf transferred ownership. You can't really bootstrap a startup into a charity. You need decades of established profitability to sustain the structure.

And third, the timing was unique. Wilsdorf set this up in mid-20th-century Geneva, in a regulatory and legal environment specifically conducive to such an arrangement. The world has changed. Tax laws have changed. Corporate governance expectations have changed. Doing what Wilsdorf did today would be significantly more complicated, though not impossible. Booooo.

For the person standing in a Rolex authorised dealer, trying to get on a list for a Submariner or a GMT-Master, none of this probably matters in the moment. You just want the watch. But I think understanding the ownership structure actually deepens the appreciation for what Rolex is.

When you buy a Rolex, you're not enriching a hedge fund or padding a conglomerate's quarterly report. You're buying from a company whose profits ultimately flow to a charitable foundation. The money goes back into making better watches, paying the people who make them, and funding charitable works in Switzerland and globally.

It's not a perfect system. It's not fully transparent. And I'm not going to pretend that buying a $15,000 Submariner watch is an act of philanthropy.

C'mon mate, let's not kid ourselves. But it is a fundamentally different ownership model from almost every other major luxury brand in the world, and it goes a long way toward explaining why Rolex feels different. Why the quality is what it is. Why the brand has remained so consistent. Why they don't chase trends or dilute their lineup.

Hans Wilsdorf built something extraordinary, and then he did something even more extraordinary: he gave it away. Not to a family, not to investors, but to a foundation with a mandate to preserve his life's work and do some good with the proceeds.

Sixty-five years after his death, Rolex is worth more than it's ever been, the watches are better than they've ever been, and the charitable foundation he created continues to operate quietly in the background, owning every single share.

It's probably the greatest succession plan in business history. And almost nobody knows much about it.

Read the full article Rolex’s Secret Business Ownership Structure Behind Every Watch Ever Sold on DMARGE. Don’t miss it!

If you've ever flipped a watch over and seen the word "chronometer" on the caseback, you've seen COSC's handiwork. The Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres has been the independent body certifying the accuracy of Swiss watches since 1973. Pass its fifteen-day test, and your movement earns the right to carry the title. It's one of the few stamps in watchmaking that actually means something.

The problem is, the world has changed a lot since the seventies. Your phone, your laptop, your tablet case, even the clasp on your bag are all throwing invisible magnetic ninja stars at your wrist every day.

So COSC has done something about it.

The existing chronometer certification isn't going anywhere. Everything that earned the standard its reputation still stands. What's new is a second level sitting above it, called the "COSC Excellence Chronometer."

Three things change.

Accuracy gets tighter. Right now, a certified chronometer can drift by up to 10 seconds a day and still pass. Under the new standard, that shrinks to 6. Over a week, that's nearly 30 fewer seconds of drift, which matters more than it sounds if you're the kind of person who actually cares what's on their wrist.

Magnetic resistance slaps. If you've ever noticed your watch running fast after resting on a laptop, you already know the issue. The new tier requires watches to handle magnetic fields up to 200 Gauss without skipping a beat. Given how many magnets we live with daily, this feels less like raising the bar and more like catching up with it.

Power reserve claims get verified. If a brand says its watch runs for 70 hours, COSC will now independently check that number. No more taking the spec sheet on faith.

After a movement passes the standard 15-day test and earns its regular chronometer status, it is returned to the brand for casing. The completed watch then returns to COSC for five more days of evaluation.

A purpose-built robot physically simulates a day on someone's wrist, moving the way you'd move. After 24 hours of that, the watch's timekeeping is measured against a much narrower window: it can only gain up to 4 seconds or lose up to 2 per day. Then it's hit with a 200 Gauss magnetic field to see if it flinches. Finally, its power reserve is tested against whatever the brand promised on the box.

Every single watch. Individually. No batch testing and no sampling. That one-by-one approach is what's always made COSC more than a marketing exercise, and it's carrying that discipline straight into the new tier.

COSC has been quietly upgrading its labs since early this year, with pilot tests launching in March. The official unveiling comes in April at Watches and Wonders in Geneva, as part of the event's LAB innovation showcase. From October, brands can formally enter the process, and the first watches carrying the Excellence Chronometer title should start appearing shortly after.

For years, the chronometer certificate has been a baseline, a way of saying "this watch keeps proper time." But the gap between that baseline and what the best brands are actually capable of has been widening. Omega has its Master Chronometer programme. Rolex has Superlative Chronometer. Grand Seiko tests in-house to tolerances that make most Swiss standards look generous.

COSC needed to evolve or risk becoming the participation trophy of Swiss watchmaking. The Excellence Chronometer doesn't replace those proprietary programmes, but it offers something none of them can: genuine independence. COSC doesn't make watches. It doesn't sell watches. It just tests them. And unlike a brand grading its own homework, that separation actually means something.

The real question now is which brands are willing to step up, because carrying the Excellence Chronometer won't just mean wanting the badge. It means every watch that wears the name has been held to tighter standards and tested under conditions that reflect how people wear watches in the real world. Not just on Instgram.

Read the full article The Swiss Standard For Watchmaking Has Just Received A Big Upgrade on DMARGE. Don’t miss it!

Bell & Ross has unveiled the BR-03 Diver Black Bronze, a limited edition dive watch that pairs a warm bronze case with a slick black dial. It might just be the French brand's finest hour.

Bell & Ross has always been a brand that punches above its weight in the dive watch space. Known primarily for aviation-inspired tool watches with that unmistakable rounded-square case, the French watchmaker's aquatic offerings tend to fly under the radar. That changes now.

The new BR-03 Diver Black Bronze takes the refreshed BR-03 Diver platform, overhauled in 2024, and wraps it in a 42mm bronze case for the first time. The result is a watch that looks far more expensive than it is.

The bronze alloy is CuSn8, a 92:8 copper-tin blend with a trace of phosphorus designed to resist corrosion and hold its original lustre over time.

That means you're getting a warm, rose gold tone that won't turn green on your wrist after a few months at the beach. If you're the kind of collector who loves a weathered patina, that might be a dealbreaker. For everyone else, it's a welcome upgrade.

The real magic, though, is in the contrast. The glossy black lacquered dial and black ceramic bezel ring sit against the bronze case like they were born together. Gilded hands and tall applied markers with pearly white Super-LumiNova, glowing green in low light, complete the look. A date window sits discreetly at 4:30, doing its job without making a fuss.

Flip the watch over and you'll find a solid steel caseback etched with an antique diving helmet in relief against a wavy background, a callback to the original bronze BR-03 Diver from 2018. It's a nice touch of nautical heritage without being too on the nose.

At 42mm, the square case is going to wear bigger than its dimensions suggest, think closer to 45mm in real terms. That said, the combination of satin brushing, polished chamfers and a tapered rubber strap keeps it feeling more refined than bulky. A second canvas and velcro strap is included in the box for when the mood shifts.

Inside, the Calibre BR-CAL.302-1, a customised Sellita SW300-1, beats at 4Hz and delivers a 54-hour power reserve. It's reliable, proven, and gets the job done without drama.

The BR-03 Diver Black Bronze is priced at US$5,500 (approximately AU$8,850) and limited to 999 pieces worldwide. It ships in a lockable, waterproof diving case with both straps and two adjustment tools.

For a bronze-cased, ISO 6425-compliant dive watch with 300m water resistance and this level of visual appeal, that's genuinely competitive. Bell & Ross isn't trying to be Rolex or Omega here. It's carving out its own lane, and this watch is proof it knows exactly where it's going.

Read the full article Bell & Ross Just Dropped Its Best-Looking Dive Watch Ever, And It’s Dripping In Bronze on DMARGE. Don’t miss it!

Dress watches are back in charge. If Elordi and Chalamet are anything to go by, the wrist flex of 2026 isn't a chunky steel sports watch. It's something far more refined, far more intentional, and a whole lot zestier.

There's a word that keeps coming up when you look at what's actually selling in the watch world right now: elegance.

Not in a boring, your-grandfather's-dress-watch way. In a "I chose this because it says something about me" way. The soft boy wrist. The performative male energy. The guy who wears a cream knit to dinner and orders natural wine without flinching. That guy doesn't need a Submariner. He needs something with a champagne dial and a moon phase.

Chrono24's 2025 market data backs this up with hard numbers. Rectangular cases, the kind Cartier has been quietly perfecting for over a century, jumped 9.3 per cent year-on-year.

Moon phase complications surged more than 15 per cent. Green, champagne and gold dials all climbed while blue and black flatlined. The message is clear: personality is outperforming safe choices.

Cartier is the obvious poster child here, up 8.3 per cent on sustained Santos and Tank demand. The Tank, in particular, is the ultimate zesty watch. It's slim, it's art deco, it drapes on the wrist like jewellery, and it looks equally at home with a linen suit or a white tee.

Chalamet wore one to damn near every press event last year and single-handedly reminded an entire generation that watches don't have to be round.

But this goes deeper than one brand. Vacheron Constantin quietly outpaced its so-called Holy Trinity rivals. Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet, with 13.4 per cent growth. The Overseas collection surged 17.3 per cent, proving you can have versatility and elegance in the same case. Meanwhile, Audemars Piguet's new directions are leaning into thinner, dressier territory, reading the room on where taste is heading.

Jaeger-LeCoultre deserves a mention here, too. The Reverso is arguably the original zesty watch. rectangular, flippable, endlessly sophisticated. It's the kind of piece that makes people lean in and ask questions, which is exactly the point. A. Lange & Söhne occupies similar territory at the top end: the Saxonia Thin, Lange 1 or a 1815 in rose gold is about as refined as mechanical watchmaking gets, and wearing one signals taste that goes beyond budget.

Then there's Grand Seiko, which might be the sleeper pick of this whole movement. Their smaller dress pieces. think the SBGW Series or anything from the Elegance collection offers finishing that rivals watches at three times the price. A 37mm Grand Seiko with a snowflake dial is peak zest for the man who doesn't need a logo to make a statement.

Even IWC got the memo, recording a 14.4 per cent jump driven partly by the Ingenieur's return. a watch that blends engineering credibility with a slimmer, more refined case profile.

Rolex is still king by volume, but its market share slipped 3.3 per cent, suggesting the flip-first hype crowd has finally cooled off. The collectors, the guys who actually care about what sits on their wrist, are back in charge.

The takeaway is simple. If your watch collection is all steel bezels and dive timing, it might be time to add something with a bit more flavour. Something that says you've got taste beyond the obvious. The zest trend isn't about being delicate. It's about being deliberate and right now, deliberate is winning.

Read the full article The Zesty Watch Trend Is Here, And More Men Need To Get On It on DMARGE. Don’t miss it!

Breitling has always had a natural relationship with the ocean, but this latest move feels more grounded than most brand-to-beach collaborations.

With the launch of the Superocean Heritage Oceania Edition and a new multi-year partnership with the World Surf League at Snapper Rocks, the Swiss watchmaker is tying itself directly to one of the most technically demanding waves in professional surfing and to the culture that surrounds it in Australia and New Zealand.

The partnership sees Breitling step in as Official Timing Partner of the WSL Snapper Rocks competition and Official WSL Australia Partner, placing the brand inside an environment where timing is not a metaphor but a measurable, unforgiving reality.

At Snapper, being early or late by a fraction of a second can decide an entire heat. That idea aligns neatly with a brand that built its reputation on chronographs and mechanical precision long before lifestyle marketing entered the picture.

The watch anchoring this announcement is the Superocean Heritage Oceania Edition, a limited release available exclusively in Australia and New Zealand.

It is familiar in shape but distinctly regional in execution. The deep blue ceramic bezel takes its cues from the Pacific and Indian Oceans, while the white satiné soleil dial reflects light in a way that feels more coastal morning than showroom gloss. Blue hands and indexes keep the aesthetic clean and legible without pushing the watch into obvious surf clichés.

Turn the watch over and the caseback reveals a sea turtle engraving, a symbol tied to longevity, navigation and resilience. It is a quiet nod to ocean culture rather than a loud statement, which suits both the watch and the market it is designed for.

Offered in 42mm and 36mm sizes, the Oceania Edition is powered by Breitling’s Manufacture Calibre B31, keeping the mechanics as considered as the design.

Breitling’s relationship with surfing is not new. The brand’s Surf Squad includes icons such as Kelly Slater and Stephanie Gilmore, athletes whose careers have been built on consistency, control and an almost obsessive understanding of timing. That same discipline defines Snapper Rocks, a wave that rewards patience and precision rather than brute force.

RELATED: Only Breitling Could Unite Stephanie Gilmore & Its Most Iconic Collections

The timing of the partnership is also deliberate. Snapper Rocks returns as a centrepiece of the World Surf League calendar during a milestone season, and the reigning 2025 Snapper Rocks Pro winner Jack Robinson has already set the benchmark for what modern performance at this wave looks like. His approach, built on reading conditions and committing decisively when the moment arrives, mirrors the philosophy behind mechanical watchmaking more closely than most sports partnerships ever manage.

At the centre of Breitling’s push into surf culture is CEO 'Georgeous' Georges Kern, whose connection to surfing goes beyond boardroom enthusiasm. We've seen him in action at Wheels & Waves. That credibility matters in a culture that tends to reject anything that feels forced or opportunistic, and it helps explain why Breitling’s presence in surfing has felt increasingly natural rather than bolted on.

For Australia and New Zealand, this release feels appropriately local. Surfing here is not a seasonal spectacle but a year-round constant that shapes how people live, train and travel. It's in our blood.

The Superocean Heritage Oceania Edition fits into that reality without trying too hard. It works just as comfortably after a dawn surf as it does back in the city later that day, which is exactly how most people in this part of the world actually wear their watches.

The Superocean Heritage Oceania Edition is available exclusively through Breitling boutiques and authorised retailers in Australia and New Zealand.

It reinforces the brand’s position at the intersection of ocean culture, high-performance sport and Swiss watchmaking, while staying relaxed enough to feel believable in a region that values authenticity over noise.

RELATED: Erling Haaland’s New Breitling Collection Is Older Than The Earth

We have had hands-on time with the watch in the office, and it genuinely looks better in person than it does in press images.

The white dial has real presence without feeling loud, catching light in a way that makes the blue bezel and hands feel sharper and more deliberate. It has that relaxed confidence that works so well in this part of the world, where design is appreciated but never fussed over.

Worn on the wrist, it feels like a distilled version of Australia’s best parts: coastal, clean, functional and quietly confident, without needing to explain itself.

Read the full article Breitling Drops Very Limited Edition ‘Aussie’ Superocean Heritage on DMARGE. Don’t miss it!

By George, he's done it. There is a particular confidence that comes from knowing exactly what your signature is, and for George Russell, that signature has always been blue, worn on his helmet, carried through his branding, and now translated into two limited Pilot’s Watches with IWC Schaffhausen that feel personal without tipping into gimmickry.

These are not merch pieces or paddock souvenirs, they are familiar IWC silhouettes tightened up with colour, material choices and restraint, which is usually where these driver collaborations either succeed quietly or fail loudly.

IWC has form here, from Top Gun ceramics to the long-running relationship with Mercedes-AMG PETRONAS Formula One Team, and that experience shows, because instead of reinventing the Pilot’s Watch, the brand has simply let Russell tune the details, which is often the smarter move when the base watch already has credibility.

Both watches lean heavily on IWC’s black zirconium oxide ceramic, a material the brand has been refining since the 1980s, and one that already feels native to the Pilot’s Watch line thanks to models like the Top Gun Chronograph.

Here it is paired with Russell’s signature blue on the numerals, indices and lume, which gives the dial a calm but purposeful contrast, especially in daylight where the blue reads as considered rather than loud.

The Chronograph 41 is the more assertive of the two, with Ceratanium pushers and crown adding texture without visual clutter, while the Automatic 41 strips things back further, relying on the colour, the ceramic and the familiar pilot layout to do the work. Neither watch feels like it is trying to shout about Formula One, which is refreshing, because the racing connection is present but not performative, more about pace and composure than overt speed references.

IWC has sensibly avoided turning this into a technical flex, opting instead for movements that are well proven within the catalogue, which keeps the conversation focused on wearability rather than spec-sheet bravado.

The chronograph runs on the in-house 69380, a robust everyday engine that suits the Pilot’s Watch brief, while the automatic uses the 32112 with its extended power reserve, which in real terms just means fewer mornings resetting the time.

On the wrist, both watches stay true to what makes modern IWC pilots appealing, solid without feeling heavy, sporty without slipping into novelty, and practical enough that you could wear them well beyond race weekend. The blue rubber strap reinforces that point, adding comfort and a subtle visual link to Russell’s helmet without forcing the reference.

What makes this collaboration land is that it feels like an extension of both parties rather than a compromise between them.

Russell’s number 63 is engraved on the titanium caseback, the blue is consistent across dial, lume and strap, and the ceramic keeps everything grounded in IWC’s material language, which is exactly how these partnerships should work.

For collectors already familiar with IWC’s Pilot’s Watches, this feels like a variation worth considering rather than a detour, and for fans of Russell, it is a reminder that good taste is often about editing rather than adding. These watches do not try to tell you who George Russell is, they assume you already know, and simply offer his version of a watch he would actually wear.

Read the full article Formula 1’s ‘Prettiest’ Man Drops Exclusive IWC Pilot Collection on DMARGE. Don’t miss it!

Breitling’s return to Formula One comes through a partnership that leans on substance rather than symbolism, aligning the iconic Swiss watchmaker with Aston Martin Aramco at a moment when both brands are investing heavily in engineering credibility rather than nostalgia alone.

Long before modern Formula One became defined by carbon fibre tubs, grid girls (RIP), wind tunnel simulations, and live telemetry, Breitling was already focused on the practical measurement of speed.

In 1907, the brand introduced the Vitesse chronograph, an early timing instrument capable of measuring velocity accurately enough to be adopted by Swiss authorities for enforcing speed limits.

At the same time in Britain, Aston Martin’s origins were being shaped through competition, with early victories on the steep chalk climb at Aston Hill helping define the brand’s motorsport direction.

That early emphasis on racing and timing continued to evolve through the middle of the twentieth century, particularly as Formula One took shape in the 1950s.

Breitling’s chronographs became closely associated with professional drivers, including figures such as Graham Hill and Jim Clark, who wore Navitimers as functional instruments rather than luxury accessories.

Originally developed for aviation, the Navitimer’s slide rule allowed precise calculations of speed, distance, and fuel consumption, tools that proved just as relevant on the circuit as they were in the cockpit. After all, most drivers were part-time pilots back then.

The Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Aston Martin Aramco Formula One Team Edition represents the first watch to emerge from the new partnership and sets the tone for how Breitling intends to position itself within Formula One today.

Limited to 1,959 pieces (boooo!), the number references Aston Martin’s first season in Formula One and avoids the open-ended production runs that often dilute motorsport-linked releases.

The case is 43 millimetres and retains the iconic Navitimer profile, but the material choice marks a significant departure. This is the first Navitimer to be produced in titanium, a move that reduces overall weight while maintaining structural rigidity, particularly relevant for a watch positioned around high-performance racing.

The decision to use titanium also signals a shift away from purely heritage-driven materials and towards those commonly associated with contemporary motorsport engineering. It allows the watch to feel purposeful on the wrist without exaggerating its presence.

The dial continues this functional approach. Carbon fibre replaces traditional finishes, drawing directly from materials used in modern Formula One cockpits. The primary colour is Aston Martin Racing Green, with lime accents taken from the current Aston Martin Aramco livery, applied sparingly to maintain legibility rather than visual excess.

Super-LumiNova on the hands and indices ensures clarity in low-light conditions, while the classic Navitimer slide rule remains intact, reinforcing the watch’s identity as a timing instrument rather than a decorative chronograph.

The overall layout remains familiar to Navitimer owners, but the execution feels more technical, aligning with the demands of contemporary motorsport rather than mid-century aviation aesthetics.

Powering the watch is the Breitling Manufacture Calibre B01, a movement that has become central to the brand’s modern identity. The chronograph is COSC-certified, column-wheel operated, and uses a vertical clutch for smoother engagement, while offering a 70-hour power reserve that suits daily wear.

The movement is visible through a sapphire caseback, where a matte-black tungsten rotor has been developed specifically for this edition and engraved with the Aston Martin Aramco Formula One Team logo. Additional engravings include “One of 1959” and the phrase “Instruments for Drivers,” reinforcing Breitling’s long-standing positioning around professional use rather than lifestyle framing.

The strap is embossed leather inspired by racing harnesses, a detail that links the watch back to the cockpit environment without resorting to overt branding.

Breitling’s re-entry into Formula One is not framed as a revival exercise, but as a continuation of a relationship that was always rooted in performance timing.

The partnership with Aston Martin Aramco places the brand trackside once again, with visibility planned throughout the Grand Prix season, beginning with the Australian Grand Prix in Melbourne.

Rather than leaning on cinematic references or exaggerated storytelling, this Navitimer focuses on materials, mechanics, and proportion, aligning with how Formula One itself has evolved.

It is a watch designed to sit comfortably within modern motorsport rather than observe it from a distance. We got hands-on this week, and it's even. better looking in the flesh.

Sadly, in very limited numbers in Australia, so register your interest below if you're keen to try it.

Read the full article Breitling Drop Exclusive Aston Martin Aramco Formula 1 Watch and It’s a Stunner on DMARGE. Don’t miss it!

There are watches that launch with fireworks, grace celebrity wrists, and earn endless superlatives. Then there are watches like this. Audemars Piguet’s new Jumping Hour Neo Frame feels like the brand stepping sideways rather than forward, and that is exactly why it works.

It's part Catier, part Jaeger-LeCoultre, and oh-so-chic.

At first glance, it barely registers as modern AP. The rectangular case in 18-carat pink gold nods heavily to Streamline-era design, with soft geometry and proportions that feel considered rather than aggressive.

RELATED: Top Audemars Piguet Watches Driving Aftermarket Demand Right Now

At 34mm and just 8.8mm thick, this is a watch that wears with confidence instead of volume. In an era where luxury often shouts, this one speaks under its breath.

The real story sits beneath the sapphire. This is the first time Audemars Piguet has introduced a selfwinding jumping hour movement, the new Calibre 7122. Jumping hour displays are one of those complications that instantly separate the curious from the casual. They are not immediately legible, they reward patience, and they tend to attract people who enjoy explaining how their watch works rather than posting it. Here, the hours jump crisply through a pink gold aperture, paired with a subtle minute display that keeps the dial clean and architectural.

That dial is another quiet flex. Made from black PVD-treated sapphire, it plays with depth and transparency without leaning into skeleton theatrics. Pink gold microblasted apertures catch the light just enough to remind you this is a precious object, not a design exercise. It is restrained, slightly strange, and far more interesting for it.

Even the strap feels deliberate. An integrated black calfskin strap with a new motif developed specifically for this watch keeps the whole thing cohesive. No bracelet chasing attention, no over-designed clasp. Just a pin buckle in matching pink gold, doing its job and getting out of the way.

The Jumping Hour Neo Frame is not a watch for everyone, and that is the compliment. It is not built for hype cycles or waitlist theatrics. It is built for collectors who care about form, mechanics, and the confidence it takes for a brand like AP to release something this left of centre.

At CHF 56,300 / $103,000 AUD, it sits firmly in serious territory. But value here is not about specs-per-dollar. It is about Audemars Piguet reminding everyone that it can still surprise us, occasionally.

Read the full article Audemars Piguet’s Coolest Watch In Years Is Also Its Quietest on DMARGE. Don’t miss it!

Lando Norris is one of Formula 1's youngest and most exciting talents... But it's the high-end timepieces he wears when he's not on the job that has got us excited lately.

The 22-year-old Brit, who races for McLaren alongside Daniel Ricciardo, has established himself as one of the brightest stars in international motorsports since his F1 debut in 2019. Halfway through the F1 season, which. has paused for a summer break, Norris sits at 7th in the standings – an impressive feat considering how lacklustre McLaren's car is this year.

McLaren is currently finding itself in a rather sticky situation, with all the drama around Oscar Piastri and Daniel Ricciardo consuming the beleaguered team. Lando, for his part, is staying well out of it, announcing he's going on a holiday by sharing a fake out-of-office autoreply on Instagram.

"Thanks for your email. I will be away from the office until [next week] for [holiday] with no access to email. If your request is urgent, please contact [@mclaren]. Otherwise, I'll get back to you as quickly as possible when I return..." Love it.

Seems he's also treated himself to a rather nice watch to wear on his holiday, too.

Norris' recent posts show him wearing a brand-new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph "50th Anniversary" (ref. 26240ST.OO.1320ST.01), which retails for AU$45,420.

As the name implies, this model celebrates the 50th anniversary of this popular luxury sports watch, and as of such features a unique 50th anniversary automatic rotor design, which AP will discontinue next year. It also boasts a unique shade of blue for its “Grande Tapisserie” dial called Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50.

RELATED: Audemars Piguet’s Most Iconic Watch Ever Gets A ‘Jumbo’ Update

This AP isn't the only flashy watch Norris has been spotted wearing lately. After the Miami Grand Prix, Norris was spotted wearing an AU$15,100 Rolex GMT-Master II 'Pepsi' (ref. 126710BLRO-0001) – one of the most iconic watches of all time – while partying at a Kygo gig alongside the Norwegian DJ and fellow F1 young gun and reigning World Champion, Max Verstappen.

The two drivers also copped some diamond-studded palm tree necklaces from Kygo's fashion label, Palm Tree Crew. Ah, the lives of the rich and the famous...

Of course, Lando's most commonly seen wearing a variety of Richard Mille watches when he's on the job, as Richard Mille is a major sponsor of McLaren.

RELATED: Lando Norris Spotted Dismantling His Car Whilst Casually Wearing $300,000 Watch

This is hardly an imposition – Richard Mille is one of the most desirable and hard-to-attain watch brands on the planet – but it's interesting to see what watches he spends his own money on.

Speaking of, check out our video below that exposes some of the other high-end watches F1 drivers wear when they're 'off-duty'.

Read the full article What Watch Does Lando Norris Wear? on DMARGE. Don’t miss it!

TAG Heuer has walked into LVMH Watch Week 2026 with a move that feels almost suspiciously sensible. The Carrera Glassbox Chronograph now comes in 41mm, it ditches the date window across the board, and it arrives in three dial colours that cover the safe pick, the interesting pick, and the sporty pick. If you have been watching the Glassbox story unfold since 2023 and thinking the design was nailed but the sizing was not quite for you, this is the release that closes the gap.

The original 39mm Glassbox hit a sweet spot for a lot of wrists, especially if you like your Carreras with that vintage-leaning restraint, but TAG has always had a chunk of its modern audience living in the 42mm to 44mm world.

For those people, the Glassbox line has looked like the best Carrera in years, just not in the size they wanted unless they were willing to go for a more complicated variant. The new 41mm models fix that, and they do it without messing with the core appeal, which is that clean, open dial and that curved sapphire crystal that makes the whole watch feel like one continuous piece of design rather than case plus crystal plus bezel.

TAG keeps the case in stainless steel with a mix of brushed and polished surfaces, and the proportions are very specific. The 41mm case measures 47.48mm lug-to-lug and 14.17mm thick, with 100 metres of water resistance.

On paper, 14.17mm sounds like it could wear tall, but the Glassbox architecture helps, as the domed sapphire crystal flows into the dial edge, visually softening the height. You also get a sapphire caseback so you can actually see the movement, and TAG keeps the pushers at 2 and 4 with the crown at 3, exactly where you want them on a Carrera chronograph.

One detail worth clocking is the Victory Wreath engraving on the case, a Carrera hallmark that plays into the model’s racing heritage and that old-school idea of the Carrera being something you earn. It is a small flourish, but it suits the watch, because the Carrera has always been about achievement culture without yelling about it.

This is the bit that will make the comment section happiest. All three 41mm models are no-date. The dial layout stays classic Carrera chronograph: 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, running seconds at 6, and a 12-hour counter at 9, with the tachymeter and minute scale printed on the curved flange. It is that flange, highlighted by the domed crystal, that gives the Glassbox its depth and its instrument vibe.

The Blue model is the most traditional, with a circular-brushed blue dial, tone-on-tone azurage subdials, rhodium-plated indices, and Super-LumiNova on the hands. The Teal Green keeps the same monochromatic approach and has that lively light-play that makes it feel more modern than a standard green dial. The Black model goes sportier, with red chronograph hands and a red outer ring for contrast, and it reads like the one you pick if you want your Carrera to look like it belongs in the driver’s seat.

TAG is also leaning harder into its newer seven-row steel bracelet, which has that beads-of-rice-esque vibe without being a literal throwback. It mixes brushed and polished links and closes with a butterfly clasp with push-button release.

The older three-row bracelet was fine, but this one feels more premium on wrist and looks more interesting in photos, which matters because half the watches being bought in 2026 are basically being auditioned for Instagram before they ever see daylight.

Inside is the in-house calibre TH20-01, an automatic chronograph with a column wheel and vertical clutch, running at 28,800vph and offering an 80-hour power reserve. It is the same proven engine that underpins TAG’s current chronograph push, and it is visible through the display back with an openworked rotor shaped like the TAG Heuer shield. The finishing is more modern-industrial than romantic, but it looks purposeful, and this watch is supposed to feel like it can actually be used.

Read the full article TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Gets A Glow Up on DMARGE. Don’t miss it!

I don’t entirely know how they do it, but if the Gen Z tastemakers decided tomorrow that millennial beige, skinny jeans and ankle socks were cool again, we’d all morph into some 2010 version of ourselves overnight.

Such is the cultural sway of the modern gatekeepers of cool that we follow their every move like mildly self-aware disciples. Too much? Maybe. But with their latest offline obsession set to define 2026, a return to analogue that openly spits in the face of the digital world, it’s hard not to pay attention.

Warm corners filled with books, journals and high-quality canvas paper, inevitably ordered on next-day delivery from Amazon, are replacing the endless white river of the infinite scroll.

A quick Google search reveals the unofficial bible for this new analogue world order. Read more fiction. Listen to records. Dust off your Ottolenghi cookbook, you know the one. Buy a DVD player. Wake up for the sunrise. Run without Strava. Shoot on film. Keep a calendar. Journal daily. These are all tangible ways of stepping out of the loop we somehow sleepwalked into.

But chief among them is one we’ve been preaching for the better part of two decades. Buy a wristwatch. You’ll feel better for it. The Gen Z barometers of cool have spoken. Perhaps trends really are cyclical, because they’re about to make a generational comeback like never before.

RELATED: Gen Z Spending Habits Are Changing The Rules Of Luxury… Brands Need To Listen

Because here’s the thing no one really talks about. Checking the time is the gateway drug. You lift your phone to see if you’re late and ten seconds later you’re knee-deep in an untimely doom scroll, wondering how to improve your forehand or whether that loveless couple can really renovate a dilapidated château in the French countryside. I swear the algorithm knew I’d just turned 30.

You didn’t need to check X. You didn’t need to clear a notification from an app you forgot you downloaded. The wristwatch quietly shuts that entire chain reaction down. Time. Glance. Done. No algorithm. No dopamine tax. Just the almost-forgotten act of telling the time.

That’s why this analogue revival feels different to the vinyl boom or the film camera renaissance. A watch isn’t a hobby. It’s a daily utility. One that doesn’t remove you from the world in the way reading a book does, or dedicating an evening to candlelit portraits of your better half.

Unlike phones or full digital detoxes, watches don’t ask you to opt out of modern life. You still need maps, payments, messages, tickets. This isn’t about becoming a monk. It’s about removing just enough convenience to stay human.

That’s why I feel like watches will outlast (and ultimately benefit from) this particular analogue moment. Rather than a reactionary trend, they’re a solution hiding in plain sight. The original single-purpose device, doing one job well, long before anyone thought that was revolutionary.

It also explains why the appeal spans everything from a $300 microbrand field watch to a five-figure hand-wound Swiss flex. The motivation is exactly the same, and it’s accessible at any price point.

Luxury brands benefit because the conversation around luxury has shifted. Loud consumption feels a bit try-hard right now, especially amid a global cost-of-living squeeze. The next generation is more selective, more sceptical, and far more willing to question what they’re paying for.

A mechanical watch fits that mood perfectly. It’s slow by design. It needs care. It asks you to meet it halfway, to wind it, set it. You build a small ritual into your day that doesn’t involve unlocking a screen.

Microbrands, meanwhile, are having their moment because Gen Z and younger millennials aren’t allergic to spending money. They’re allergic to feeling like they're making an ill-informed purchase. And are more conscious of what their watch says about them.

A well-designed watch from a small, opinionated brand scratches the analogue itch without worrying about the latest price hikes or waitlists and boutique theatre. It feels like buying something because you genuinely want it, not because Instagram decided it was time.

So yes, read more fiction. Light a candle. Cook something from a book instead of a browser tab. But if you’re going to start anywhere, start with the thing that lives on your wrist. It won’t change your life overnight, but it might just give your attention back, one glance at a time. The Gen Z have spoken.

Read the full article Gen Z’s New Offline Obsession Could Be Luxury Watchmaking’s Best Moment Yet on DMARGE. Don’t miss it!

If the past few years have taught us anything, it’s that watchmaking no longer moves in neat, predictable cycles.

Trends emerge, stall, reappear, and sometimes skip a generation entirely. That’s part of the fun. So rather than calling this a list of hard forecasts, consider it a mix of signals we’re already seeing and directions we’d genuinely like the industry to lean into in 2026. Some of these feel inevitable. Others feel aspirational. Most sit somewhere in between.

For a long time, safe steel sports watches dominated the conversation. Black dial, brushed case, interchangeable bracelet, swap the logo and you could’ve been talking about half the industry. That era feels like it’s loosening its grip.

We expect and want more colour finding its way into permanent collections in the big brands' catalogues. Tudor’s continued evolution of the Black Bay range saw burgundy enter the conversation, and it remained one of the more confident choices through Watches & Wonders in the earlier part of the year.

When you look at IWC’s green Ingenieur, released as part of the cultural phenomenon that was the F1 movie, the expressive dials coming out of Ulysse Nardin, and the bolder Planet Ocean executions from OMEGA, it all points to brands feeling more comfortable expressing themselves with colour. Something that, for a long time at least, felt like a risk.

In a market where differentiation matters more than ever, watches that feel visually intentional stand a far better chance of cutting through.

Of course, for many would-be collectors, buying a timepiece might not be a frequent experience. Would you part with your hard-earned cash for a bright watch?

Perhaps the safer option is to go for another black dial. This shift proves that confident choices are no longer left up to the brands. The consumers must also buy into it. Hopefully, this sticks long into 2026.

The last twelve months have shown that buyers are thinking harder about where their money goes.

Fewer impulse purchases and more considered decisions have become the norm in this transient, trending industry, and we're seeing consumers looking at the entire brand offerings when making their next purchase. It's quickly proved fertile ground for microbrands that offer quality and value in equal measure.

Brands such as Christopher Ward and Studio Underd0g are two obvious examples. Both have managed to sit in that luxury gulf between entry-level and heritage heavyweights, building genuine demand through limited releases, pre-orders, and a clear sense of identity.

Waitlists are getting longer by the year, and drops sell out faster. It's showing us that the audience is paying attention.

In 2026, we expect microbrands to continue gathering pace, not just because they offer a cheaper alternative, but because what they're offering in terms of variety and design is appealing to the consumer. They know who they’re speaking to, and just as importantly, who they’re not.

At first glance, this might sound like it contradicts the push for more colour. It doesn’t. What we’re seeing is a more educated buyer who can appreciate both aesthetics and mechanics without needing one to cancel out the other.

There’s a renewed respect for watchmaking substance. Movements, finishing, complications, and intellectual honesty matter again. A. Lange & Söhne remains the north star here, attracting collectors who care less about flash and more about execution.

This year’s Aiguille d’Or winner, Breguet’s Classique Souscription, summed it up perfectly. A simple dial from one of the industry’s great sleeping giants, yet easily one of the most exciting releases of the year. It proved that classic complications and heritage-driven watchmaking still resonate deeply when done properly.

In 2026, we expect this mindset to spread further. Fewer empty gestures. More respect for what actually makes a watch special.

Watch brands have always loved celebrity associations. What’s changed is how effective those relationships are becoming.

IWC’s involvement with the Formula 1 movie felt like the most culturally relevant partnership of the year, bridging the gap between luxury watch collectors and F1 fans in a way that hasn't ever really happened before.

Sure, you could go out and buy an OMEGA Seamaster because you saw Pierce Brosnan wear one, but there's something more intimate about the Ingenieur's year-in-focus. Something that was reflected in unit sales for the Swiss brand.

Hamilton was another one that crossed into pop culture, releasing a Call of Duty watch for a global, younger audience; Breitling bringing Austin Butler into the fold felt timely; and OMEGA’s alignment with Glen Powell and Aaron Taylor-Johnson suggested a clearer understanding of modern masculinity and screen presence that will only put the brand more into the minds of consumers.

In 2026, we expect and want to see partnerships that feel considered, strategic, and culturally fluent. Someone like Timothée Chalamet will almost certainly have his pick of brands, and whichever Maison lands him will say a lot about where it wants to sit in the global conversation.

There’s a quiet shift happening among watch buyers. The idea that every watch must be a daily wearer is starting to feel outdated. Which, when you take a step back, makes sense.

Not every watch suits every moment. Some belong in the evening. Some are for travel. Some simply aren’t water-resistant enough for a beach holiday, and that’s fine. Those distinctions should be part of the watch's story, rather than seen as an inherent flaw.

In 2026, we expect collections to become more deliberate. Maybe not bigger in a reckless sense, but more considered. Fewer do-it-all compromises, more watches chosen for specific roles. As choice in the market continues to expand, so too does the opportunity to wear the right watch at the right time.

And honestly, that feels like a healthier relationship with this addictive hobby.

Read the full article Watch Trends We Expect (Want) To See In 2026 on DMARGE. Don’t miss it!

For the past ten years, rising watch prices from brands like Rolex and Patek Phillipe have become one of the most reliable flashpoints in modern collecting culture. Flaring up every time a brand updates a price list or a boutique quietly refreshes its website, usually followed by screenshots of old catalogues and a familiar sense that something has finally gone too far. But has it?

Strip away the emotion, and the picture becomes more nuanced, because while prices have undeniably risen, the scale of those increases looks very different once watches are viewed alongside inflation, property, precious metals, the aftermarket, and even alternative assets like crypto, all of which quietly shape how value is perceived, whether brands like it or not.

The difficulty with any long-term comparison is that watch brands rarely stand still. References evolve, movements are upgraded, case sizes creep up, bracelets improve, and collections are deliberately repositioned higher, often framed as refinement rather than reinvention.

The most honest way to track the last decade is to follow flagship models that have remained conceptually consistent. Think Rolex Submariner, Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch, TAG Heuer Carrera. Not perfect comparisons, but close enough to reveal the direction of travel.

Take the Rolex Submariner, the watch most often cited as the epicentre of price outrage. In the mid-2010s, a steel Submariner Date typically sat in the high US$7,000–8,000 range depending on the market.

Today, the current Submariner Date lists for around US$14,000 (AUD $18,500). That places the increase somewhere around 25 to 35 per cent over roughly a decade. Significant, yes, but far removed from the doubling that memory and social media discourse often suggest. Much of the frustration surrounding the Submariner has less to do with list price and more to do with access, waitlists, and the way scarcity has reshaped the buying experience.

The Omega Speedmaster tells a slightly different story. A Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch with Hesalite crystal could be purchased in the mid-2010s for roughly US$5,300–5,500. Today, that same core watch costs around US$7,000–8,000 (around AUD $12,000).

That represents an increase of roughly 45 to 50 per cent, meaning the Speedmaster has comfortably outpaced inflation over the same period. Omega would argue, with some true justification, that this reflects a genuine technical upgrade, including Master Chronometer certification and a new calibre, rather than pure margin expansion.

Worth noting, Omega's Dark Side Of The Moon Speedmaster went from $14,000 AUD at the time of first release to $24,000 in around 10 years. That's a more considerable watch, but its availability makes it a much more attractive option for many buyers. No fuss, just get it on your wrist.

TAG Heuer’s Carrera occupies a more accessible tier of the Swiss luxury market, yet follows a similar trajectory. Around 2015 or 2016, a steel Carrera chronograph typically listed around US$3,500–4,500 (roughly AUD $5,200–6,700).

Modern Carrera chronographs with the Heuer 02 movement now cost US$5,500–7,000 (around AUD $10,500 for a CBS2210.BA0048), placing the increase roughly in the 30-50 per cent range. Again, noticeable, but broadly in line with the wider industry rather than wildly ahead of it.

Across large-volume luxury brands such as Rolex, Omega, TAG Heuer, Cartier, Breitling and Longines, comparable flagship models have generally been up by between 25 and 55 per cent over the past decade.

Move further upmarket, and the increases become more aggressive, with Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Richard Mille often landing in the 50 to 90 per cent range depending on reference, material and how deliberately the brand has leaned into exclusivity. These brand don't mess around and rightly so.

That sounds confronting until the lens widens. Inflation across most developed economies over the same period has ranged from roughly 25 to 35 per cent. Watches have outpaced the cost of living, but not by an absurd margin. They have become more expensive in real terms, but not wildly detached from broader economic reality.

Property, by contrast, has surged far harder. In cities like Sydney, Melbourne, London and New York, median house prices have climbed anywhere from 70 per cent to well over 100 per cent over the same timeframe, making watches look almost restrained by comparison.

Gold provides another useful reference point.

Over the past decade, it has risen roughly 60 to 70 per cent, while platinum has broadly tracked inflation with periods of volatility. Many watch prices, particularly steel sports models and precious metal references, have effectively moved in line with gold, which is notable given that watches are finished goods layered with brand equity, marketing and distribution costs rather than raw commodities.

Any serious discussion about watch pricing over the past ten years is incomplete without addressing the grey market and aftermarket, even though brands will insist it does not influence official retail pricing. In reality, the aftermarket acts as a powerful psychological signal. When a steel sports watch trades at double retail for years on end, it reshapes expectations.

Brands see sustained demand at higher price points, retailers see customers willing to pay premiums elsewhere, and buyers recalibrate what feels normal. Retail prices do not rise because of the aftermarket, but they are unquestionably emboldened by it.

The Rolex Submariner illustrates this perfectly. While retail prices have risen roughly 25 to 35 per cent over a decade, aftermarket prices at their peak surged far beyond that during the pandemic-era frenzy, with professional steel models trading north of US$18,000–20,000.

Even as the market cools, those years left a lasting imprint. Paying retail no longer feels expensive when the alternative has already trained buyers to accept far higher numbers. The same applies to watches like the Royal Oak, Nautilus and Daytona, where the gap between retail and secondary pricing became so wide that retail itself started to feel artificially low.

Once the conversation shifts from emotion to value retention, watches inevitably get compared to other luxury goods, and that comparison is revealing because it clarifies what watches are, and what they are not.

Handbags sit at the top of the luxury return hierarchy.

Hermès Birkin and Kelly bags have delivered extraordinary performance over the past decade, in some cases outperforming equities, gold and property, driven by extreme supply control, relentless demand and near-universal brand recognition. Chanel has followed with aggressive pricing of its own, turning certain classic bags into asset-adjacent objects almost by accident.

Fine wine occupies a more complex middle ground. Blue-chip producers and regions have delivered strong long-term returns, but the market is opaque, storage-dependent and sensitive to global cycles. Wine rewards patience and infrastructure, making it an investment first and a pleasure second, which fundamentally changes how most people engage with it.

Watches sit somewhere between these worlds. A small number of references have delivered exceptional returns, largely driven by scarcity and aftermarket demand, while the majority track inflation modestly or outperform it by a reasonable margin.

As a category, watches are not the strongest-performing luxury asset, but they are among the most liquid, culturally visible and emotionally engaging. They are worn, used, talked about and passed on, delivering daily utility in a way that wine in storage or handbags in safes do not.

And then there is the comparison that makes all of this slightly uncomfortable. Crypto.

In 2016, Bitcoin was trading roughly between US$500 and US$700 (around AUD $750–1,050), volatile, poorly understood and widely dismissed. At the same time, a steel Rolex Submariner sat comfortably around US$7,500–8,000 (AUD $11,000–12,000), while an Omega Speedmaster could be bought for closer to US$5,000 (around AUD $7,500).

Fast forward to today, and the contrast is stark. A US$10,000 investment could have grown to over US$2,000,000 at today's valuations. That's like comparing an apple and a buy, but the 20,793% return is pretty sweet.

Against that backdrop, a Submariner rising 25 to 35 per cent or a Speedmaster climbing 45 to 50 per cent is almost irrelevant. Bitcoin is a high-volatility, high-risk speculative asset that rewards early conviction, timing and an iron stomach. Not I.

Seen through this wider lens, the frustration around watch prices begins to shift. Over the past decade, watches have risen broadly in line with inflation, tracked precious metals, underperformed property, lagged handbags at the extreme end, and been completely dwarfed by speculative assets like crypto.

What's happening for most is our pay packets are not moving in the same direction, thanks to a fairly woeful global economic outlook. Throwin a few wars and some pandemics and we're got ourselves a bit of a poop sandwich.

So, should we stop complaining? Probably.

Scrutiny keeps brands honest and prevents excess from becoming normalised. But perspective is overdue. Watch prices have risen, sometimes sharply, but when viewed against inflation, property, precious metals, the aftermarket, and alternative assets have largely moved in step with the world around them.

The real shift has not been the price itself, but access, scarcity and the widening gap between retail fantasy and retail reality. And that change, more than any percentage increase on a price tag, is what has fundamentally altered how buying a watch now feels.

Read the full article The Truth About Rising Watch Prices on DMARGE. Don’t miss it!

There are watches people buy to be noticed. And then there are watches people buy because they know what they are looking at.

Grand Seiko sits comfortably in the second camp. It is never loud, never chasing hype, and never asking for attention. Owning one quietly suggests a certain confidence. The kind that does not need to announce itself every time you walk into a room.

Most people do not arrive at Grand Seiko by accident. It is rarely a first serious watch. More often, it belongs to someone who has already done the laps. They have owned the obvious Swiss names. They have fallen for the classics, flirted with the hype pieces, and spent more time than they would like to admit reading forums and comparing movements late at night.

Eventually, curiosity takes over. And Grand Seiko tends to be where that curiosity lands.

There is a respect for craft at the heart of it. Not the kind that is shouted from a billboard, but the kind you only really notice when you slow down and look closely. Anyone who has spent time with an SBGA211 Snowflake or its newer sibling, the SLGA009 White Birch Spring Drive, understands this immediately. The dial is not there to impress at a glance. It reveals itself slowly, changing with the light, rewarding patience rather than demanding attention.

If you own one, you likely value restraint.

Grand Seiko ownership also tends to go hand in hand with a quiet resistance to logos. The branding is modest, almost conservative. No oversized cues. No unnecessary flex. Someone wearing an SBGW231, for example, a simple hand-wound piece with no date and near-perfect proportions, is not trying to win an argument. They are simply comfortable with their decision.

It says something about how you approach status more broadly. You are not against nice things. Far from it. But you do not need your purchases to do the talking for you. The pleasure comes from knowing, not showing.

In many ways, Grand Seiko is the Lexus of watch ownership, and even the Lexus of matchmaking. Sensible. Dependable. Exceptionally well made. It may not turn heads across a crowded room, but it is the choice that makes sense long after the novelty wears off. A watch like the SBGM221 GMT fits that mould perfectly. Understated, quietly useful, and almost impossible to regret living with.

That mindset usually extends beyond watches. Cars chosen for how they drive rather than how they photograph. Hotels picked for comfort and service, not rooftop drama. Clothes that wear well over time, not pieces that peak on release day. You are not chasing the newest thing. You are chasing the right thing.

Then there is Spring Drive. For many owners, the moment they chose something like the SBGA413 Shunbun or the SLGA021 Lake Suwa, they stopped caring about traditional categories altogether. Mechanical versus quartz becomes irrelevant. What matters is the result. Effortless accuracy, that hypnotic glide of the seconds hand, and a level of refinement that feels quietly futuristic without trying to look it.

Spring Drive suits people who are comfortable sitting in the grey area. Those who appreciate solutions that are objectively better, even if they take a little longer to explain.

There is often a deeper appreciation for Japan behind the choice, too. The discipline. The humility. The obsession with incremental improvement. Grand Seiko does not rush recognition. It assumes that if the work is good enough, the rest will follow. Eventually.

That philosophy tends to resonate with people playing a long game in their own lives. Careers built over time. Taste developed slowly. Confidence earned, not borrowed.

Perhaps the most telling thing owning a Grand Seiko says about you is that you are comfortable being quietly correct. The brand is having its moment now, but many owners were already there well before it became fashionable to notice.

And in a watch world increasingly driven by hype cycles and resale charts, that feels like a very deliberate choice.

For relaxing times, make them Grand Seiko times.

Read the full article What Owning A Grand Seiko Watch Says About You on DMARGE. Don’t miss it!

Rolex has opened 2026 by doing what it now does best: raising prices again. Quietly, decisively, and for the third time in roughly twelve months, the world’s most powerful watch brand has pushed retail higher across its catalogue.

While gold and platinum can at least lean on real-world commodity pressure, the continued escalation of stainless steel pricing now feels like something else entirely. Less strategy. More audacity.

Context matters. Rolex raised prices twice in 2025 as a defensive move against looming US tariffs on Swiss watches, briefly threatened at a punitive 39 per cent.

When those tariffs were reduced to 15 per cent in November, Rolex paused. That restraint was read as discipline. Then, on January 1, 2026, prices jumped again anyway.

In the US, average increases landed at roughly seven percent. The steel Rolex GMT-Master II on Jubilee rose from US$11,300 in December 2025 to US$12,000 in January 2026, a 6.2 percent jump. The no-date Rolex Submariner climbed from US$9,500 to US$10,050. The steel Rolex Daytona moved from US$16,000 to US$16,900.

Viewed through a US lens, the steel Rolex Submariner tells a subtler story than the outrage suggests, but it still raises flags. When the current-generation Submariner launched in 2020, the no-date model retailed for roughly US$8,100. As of January 1, 2026, that same watch now sits at US$10,050. That is an increase of about US$1,950, or roughly 24 per cent over six years, closer to 20 per cent across the last five meaningful price resets.

In isolation, that rise is not wildly out of step with the broader US economy. Cumulative US inflation from 2020 to the end of 2025 sits in the 15 to 25 percent range, driven by pandemic-era stimulus, supply chain disruption, higher energy costs, and wage pressure. On paper, Rolex can argue it has simply kept pace with the cost of living in its most important market.

Where the tension emerges is in how those increases have been delivered. Inflation rose unevenly but gradually. Rolex pricing did not.

Instead, buyers experienced long periods of stability followed by sharp jumps, including multiple increases across 2025 and into 2026. Add in the fact that stainless steel has not seen meaningful commodity inflation, and the optics shift.

Australia tells a sharper story. The steel Daytona ‘Panda’ that was AU$25,200 in 2025 now retails for AU$28,200 in 2026. The Submariner Date ‘Starbucks’ has climbed from AU$17,700 to AU$19,850. These are stainless steel sports watches, once positioned as rugged, functional icons, now drifting into pricing territory that used to guarantee precious metal or serious complications.

RELATED: Rolex Waitlists Are Finally Cracking

This is where Rolex’s argument starts to thin.

Precious metals at least offer a partial explanation. Gold prices surged throughout 2024 and 2025 amid geopolitical instability, central bank accumulation, and investor demand for hard assets. Platinum, while less predictable, has also firmed due to supply constraints and renewed industrial use. Against that backdrop, the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Platinum moving from AU$125,300 in 2025 to AU$141,500 in 2026 is eye-watering, but not irrational. Platinum Dayonas exist in a rarefied collector space where price sensitivity is already low.

The same logic loosely applies to mixed-metal models. The Rolex GMT-Master II ‘Root Beer’ has jumped from AU$28,700 in 2025 to AU$32,800 in 2026, a AU$4,100 increase. Everose gold costs more to produce. Commodity inputs are real. The rise is aggressive, but at least explainable.

Steel prices have not surged. Manufacturing processes have not changed materially. Demand has cooled compared to the mania of 2021 and 2022. Secondary market premiums have narrowed or disappeared entirely. And yet steel Rolex pricing continues to climb as if scarcity alone is still doing the heavy lifting.

At close to AU$30,000 for a steel Daytona, the emotional equation changes. Buyers are no longer stretching. They are pausing. At that price, collectors start cross-shopping perpetual calendars, precious-metal dress watches, and high complications from rivals. Steel Rolex stops being the default choice and becomes a topic of debate for consumers.

This is no longer about demand. It is about conditioning. Rolex has trained its audience to believe prices only ever move in one direction. Waitlists, controlled supply, and resale mythology have reinforced that belief for years. The risk now is fatigue. Brand power works until it doesn’t.

RELATED: Why My Next Watch Won’t Be A Rolex

Rolex will not stumble overnight. It remains the market leader with unparalleled data and discipline. But it also sets the tone for the entire industry. When Rolex pushes steel this hard, others follow. If 2026 becomes the year luxury watch brands collectively decide that price increases are the answer to everything, the correction will not come from the market collapsing. It will come from buyers simply opting out.

Gold and platinum will always rise and fall with global forces. Steel doing the same is a brand decision. And right now, that decision feels less like confidence and more like Rolex seeing just how far it can push before consumers finally say, "No thanks," Jeff.

If you want to compare, read our 2025 Rolex price guide article to see how much prices have changed.

Read the full article Rolex 2026 Prices Revealed As Steel Watches Hit Breaking Point on DMARGE. Don’t miss it!

Over the past five years, the luxury watch aftermarket has gone from niche obsession to mainstream financial conversation.

What was once driven by collectors quietly trading pieces through dealers and forums exploded during the pandemic years, fuelled by supply shortages, social media hype and a sudden influx of new buyers who viewed watches as both status symbols and alternative assets. Prices surged, waiting lists lengthened, and models that once traded at retail began commanding eye-watering premiums.

That boom peaked around 2022. As global conditions tightened and speculative buyers exited, the secondary market cooled.

RELATED: Rolex 2026 Prices Revealed As Steel Watches Hit Breaking Point

Prices across many brands softened, hype models corrected, and liquidity slowed. Yet even through the downturn, one constant remained. Rolex continued to anchor the market. While some brands experienced dramatic pullbacks, Rolex prices proved more resilient, reinforcing its position as the safest currency in watches.

It is against this backdrop that Rolex’s certified pre-owned program takes on real significance. Rather than chasing short term profit, the brand has made a calculated move to stabilise and legitimise the resale ecosystem.

Pre owned Rolex watches sold through authorised dealers are inspected, authenticated, serviced, and backed by an official two year warranty. That simple promise carries enormous weight in a market long plagued by counterfeits, undocumented repairs and inconsistent standards.

What makes the strategy particularly smart is its restraint. Rolex does not own the watches, dictate resale prices, or operate a central marketplace. Authorised retailers source and sell the pieces, while Rolex provides certification and oversight. This keeps supply in check and avoids undermining demand for new watches, while still ensuring the brand controls how its products circulate once they leave the boutique.

Consumer behaviour has shifted rapidly over the same period. Younger buyers are increasingly comfortable entering luxury through the pre owned door, especially when it comes with authenticity and warranty support. For them, resale is not a compromise. It is a rational way to access scarce models, manage depreciation risk, and participate in a category that feels otherwise closed off.

RELATED: British Woman Murdered For Gold Rolex

The last five years have also shown how exposed the aftermarket can be without brand involvement. Rapid price inflation attracted opportunists, while price corrections punished those who mistook hype for long term value. Rolex’s move adds ballast to the system.

Certified pre owned watches trade at a premium because buyers are paying for certainty, not speculation.

There is also a quieter benefit for the brand itself. By formalising resale, Rolex gains insight into how its watches move through the market, which references retain demand, and how ownership patterns evolve over time. That intelligence informs everything from production planning to long term brand positioning.

For the wider watch industry, the message is clear. The aftermarket is no longer something brands can afford to ignore or dismiss. It has become a parallel economy that shapes perception, pricing and desirability. Rolex’s approach suggests the future belongs to brands that respect resale without trying to dominate it.

After five turbulent years, the watch aftermarket is maturing. Rolex’s certified pre-owned strategy does not just reflect that shift. It helps define it.

Read the full article Rolex’s Strategy Shift Puts The Watch Aftermarket On Notice on DMARGE. Don’t miss it!

We've had quite a bit to say about the United States and its decisions to leverage hefty tariffs against countries like Switzerland and its luxury Swiss exports. We even suggested that America’s taste for luxury might finally be slowing, with more markets opening up in retaliation to Trump's tariff tactics.

But the numbers don't lie: Watches of Switzerland just posted a 15% bump in US sales for the first half, translating to more than £409 million (~$825 million AUD) in Rolex, TAG Heuer, and Audemars Piguet walking out the door in six months.

Almost 60% of the company’s total profitability now comes from American buyers alone, making it clearer than ever which flag is keeping the lights on in Geneva.

This momentum continues even as Swiss lawmakers file criminal complaints over glittering “gifts” handed to Donald Trump shortly before he reduced his own crippling tariffs; a Rolex table clock worth up to 25,000 CHF (~$47,000 AUD) and a gold bar possibly exceeding 100,000 CHF (~$188,000 AUD).

The timing raised eyebrows in Bern; the Attorney General is assessing whether any of this qualifies as bribery.

Yet while the diplomats argue and the lawyers get busy, American collectors continue to buy without hesitation; boutiques stay stocked and moving; brand partners quietly celebrate that what was meant to be economic deterrence has instead fortified demand.

The US accounts for nearly 17% of all shipments out of Switzerland; the number one market globally by a comfortable margin.

Even at the peak of uncertainty, American consumers behaved as though nothing had happened. Because if you've been waiting the better part of 12 months for a new Daytona, you won't exactly wait for geopolitics to settle when your number gets called.

Next year, the global luxury market is projected to grow again. Reports suggest that China is warming up; Europe is holding its nerve; but the real weight sits with the United States, where enthusiasm has shifted from hype-driven scramble to confident acquisitions of some of the world's biggest timepieces.

It's behaviour we've seen elsewhere, too, with Gen-Z shoppers and China's middle class showing that luxury purchases are better done with conviction rather than impulse, favouring icons with proven cultural clout over a trending novelty that fades before you've closed the crown.

Australia is performing well in a similar vein, embracing that an impressive mindset that continues to look at the value proposition of any purchase. Nevertheless, America is still the centre of gravity right now.

It shapes allocations; dictates priorities; and keeps the Swiss waking each morning with grateful accountants. Tariffs, gifts, and political theatre can swirl in the background, but the truth is simple. The American wrist remains the most influential place a Swiss watch can land; everything else is commentary.

Read the full article This Is One Luxury Watch Market Switzerland Simply Can’t Afford To Lose on DMARGE. Don’t miss it!

Few brands can lay claim to such a singular identity as Panerai. Of course, in today’s horological space, swing a large net and you’d catch any number of brands that fall into the “Jack of All Trades; Master of None” category. But not Panerai.

Founded in Florence by Giovanni Panerai, the luxury Maison began as a workshop and watch shop over 160 years ago in 1860. Over time, it became a trusted partner of the Italian Navy, supplying precision instruments and technical solutions designed to withstand the extreme conditions of underwater operations.

Those early dive watches were unapologetically rugged and oversized, hefty pieces on the wrist built for hardened commandos. It didn’t take long before the Italian powerhouse would attract a glowing reputation for reliability beneath the waves, long before luxury collectors ever caught on. 

Today, Panerai’s reputation in the world of dive watches is arguably second to none. Instead of focussing on lavish excess, the Italian brand’s designs are built with purpose and legibility in mind, embodying the same defining qualities that made the brand’s most famous creation, the Luminor model, a cult object among the Paneristi faithful. 

Recognisable by its luminous sandwich dial and the signature crown-protecting bridge, the Luminor is both a military relic and a design icon. One that equally wouldn’t look out of place permanently fixed to the control room of a deep-sea submersible or on your wrist for next week’s late-night function.

We’ve just had the new Panerai Luminor Marina Bronzo PAM01678 through the office over the last month, and, on first glance, it looks like it was built for the ocean; like some long-lost fragment of a vintage submersible that’s surfaced from the deep. I mean this with untethered affection.  

Everything about it feels deliberate; the clean dial, big, bold numerals, and purposeful design remind me of the true tool watch of the 20th century. Pieces, designed for adventure rather than embellishment, that serve a purpose and can be the difference between life and death at the world’s most unforgiving depths.

For the first time, Panerai has introduced bronze to the Luminor Marina line, a blend of pure copper and tin which has been expertly engineered to develop a protective patina over time. It means that each piece will evolve in its own way; one that’s unique to its wearer.

The new matte blue gradient dial, fading from deep navy at the edges to lighter tones at the centre, perfectly complements the warm outer metal. Free of date windows or unnecessary clutter that we see so much these days, it’s certainly a modern take on a timeless expression; an elegant nod to the brand’s 1960s professional tool watches.

Under the hood, Panerai has incorporated the P.980 automatic calibre, released with the new generation of Panerai models. It boasts a three-day power reserve and improved shock resistance compared to its predecessors. 

The slimmer case profile ensures the watch wears comfortably while maintaining the Luminor’s unmistakable wrist presence. With water resistance to 500 metres, each case is tested 25% beyond its rated depth, proving Panerai’s dive-watch pedigree isn’t just historical marketing.

Of course, straddling the line between Italian luxury and deep-sea exploration, Panerai’s new Luminor Marina is presented on both a blue calf leather strap with beige stitching (which, admittedly, I’ve been wearing for most of this week), as well as an additional blue rubber strap for ocean duty (which, I’ll also admit I haven’t had the chance to test out for myself).

But after wearing this piece for this review, I’ve found that the PAM01678 feels like the most authentic expression of Panerai’s DNA in years.

What I mean by that is that Panerai watches were never meant to be decorative showpieces, embellished with diamonds or spinning roulette wheels. 

They were tools built for reliability, and this new Luminor Marina Bronzo captures that spirit perfectly. The sandwich dial exists to improve legibility in low light. The crown-protecting bridge was engineered to stop water from seeping into the case. Even the bronze itself, which darkens and evolves over time, tells a story of use. 

That’s what makes the PAM01678 so satisfying to wear. It’s a watch that will look different next summer, and different again a decade from now, shaped by the wearer’s own life rather than sitting untouched in a safe.

In an industry often distracted by overdesign, the Luminor Marina Bronzo PAM01678 is a reminder of what Panerai has always done best: build watches with soul, and a story that deepens with time.

Read the full article Panerai Announces Historic First To Its Most Iconic Collection on DMARGE. Don’t miss it!

When Steve McQueen strapped on the original TAG Heuer Monaco in Le Mans back in 1971, he probably didn’t expect it to become the official timepiece of the Strip nearly fifty years later.

Att the time, McQueen was the leading man. The star. He lived for himself and answered to nobody. So, between the leather jacket and the Porsche 917, the Monaco on his wrist was always going enjoy enduring appeal, perfectly placed within the world of motorsport heritage and cinematic flair.

Today, it stands under new lights. Neon lights, to be exact. And it's a real beauty.

Inspired by the Las Vegas Grand Prix and the unique atmosphere that comes from a street circuit under the cover of the Nevada night, TAG Heuer has unveiled its boldest take on the Monaco Chronograph yet.

This is not Monte Carlo elegance, with a sweater vest draped over your shoulder. This is pure Vegas energy from the newcomer to the F1 calendar. Fireworks, deafening straights, floodlit street circuits bordered by roulette tables and Michael Jackson impersonators. This is the watch built for the new order in motorsport. And I love it.

The acid pink accents of last year's iteration have been traded out for a deeper gradient. In certain lights, the aesthetic shifts from violet to blue across a skeletonised dial to mirror the Vegas skyline as day turns to night.

There is plenty to look at, but nothing feels ornamental. It looks like someone's taken elements of the circuit itself and contorted them into one a horological icon.

Built in black DLC-coated sandblasted titanium, the case keeps the iconic Monaco 39mm proportions but feels lighter and more technical on the wrist.

The touch of titanium means that this thing's built to go wherever you do, safe in the knowledge that any bump and nick won't cause the same cosmetic hurt that we've seen across some of the cars on the grid this season.

Powering this piece isn't a trusty Honda engine, but TAG Heuer has found the next best thing (in horological terms) utilising the brand's in-house Calibre TH20-00: a solid movement that delivers an 80-hour power reserve and chronograph functionality, visible through both the openworked dial and sapphire crystal caseback.

The mechanical architecture suits the watch perfectly. It's a modern head-turner, but equally technical and well-engineered. The similarities with the sport of Formula 1 keep racking up.

Limited to just 600 pieces globally, the TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph is available from 20 November, just in time for the return of the Las Vegas Grand Prix, and will retail at $17,100 AUD. A slight lift on last year, but so was the Vegas Grand Prix. Such is momentum.

I was fortunate to try this piece for size earlier this month and it's undoubtedly my favourite Formula 1 X TAG Heuer release since the Swiss luxury watchmaker partnered with the grid at the start of the year. TAG Heuer is clearly enjoying its time in the paddock. And in Vegas, the show always starts after dark.

Read the full article TAG Heuer’s Latest Monaco Makes A Play For The Vegas Grand Prix on DMARGE. Don’t miss it!

For a few weeks now, OMEGA’s official Instagram has been teasing the release of something special to its revered Seamaster collection, posting titanium tidbits and ceramic corners that had horological tongues wagging in anticipation.

Now we know, and it’s a huge announcement that positions this next generation of Seamaster Planet Oceans alongside Rolex in the dive watch category.

Let’s get the obvious out of the way first. OMEGA hasn’t been afraid to add a touch of colour to this iconic collection, reintroducing a bright and vibrant orange colourway across the series. It taps directly into the 1957 Seamaster 300 pieces that carried orange accents through the hands, indices and bezel.

Those cues resurfaced again in the very first Planet Ocean models in 2005, where orange lined the numbers and bezel and gave the watch its early cult status. Twenty years later, OMEGA has been brave enough to bring the colour back. Not quietly. Not in a limited edition. Rolled out in impressive scale.

Of course, we still get the sleek black version and the deep blue variant made famous in the modern consciousness thanks to its GoldenEye and Bond connection.

OMEGA has even handed the ambassador baton to 007-hopeful Aaron Taylor-Johnson to guide the next era of the collection. Glen Powell steps in for the orange hero piece, because if anyone can sell a high-visibility ceramic bezel with charm, it is him. From here, the collection splits into three distinct personalities.

The OMEGA Seamaster Planet Ocean 600m in Black is the classic carrier of the collection, designed for the diver who thinks colour is something that belongs in galleries rather than on an expensive timepiece. Of course, OMEGA caters to all.

The matte black dial, rhodium-plated numerals and white enamel bezel scale give this piece a functional look and feel, like the purist’s Planet Ocean. It is the no nonsense option in the range, the one that feels closest to the original brief of a professional dive watch. The watch for the guy who actually dives.

Which, with a 600 metre water resistance and a 60 hour power reserve encased in NASA-preferred Grade 5 titanium, is exactly what this model is built for.

The blue edition is the everyday option, utilising the shine of the ceramic bezel with white enamel: a classy look that wouldn't look out of place at the nearest cocktail party or searching for an enemy sub in international waters, in equal measure. The Bond Watch, I'll call it. Original.

For me, it's easily the most wearable model across the entire lineup. The sort of watch you can take from Bondi brunch to a business dinner without feeling like you need a costume change.

Paired with the steel bracelet, it has that elevated look that has become all the rage these days. But paired with the blue rubber strap, it becomes something else entirely: useful and pragmatic, yet effortlessly appealing.

Then there is the OMEGA Seamaster Planet Ocean in Orange. The real head-turner. The one designed for people who want a Planet Ocean that makes a statement on the wrist, whilst still keeping it classy.

OMEGA has said that its Swiss ateliers were hard at work for years perfecting orange ceramic, hoping to avoid the cheap, plastic film that haunts lower quality attempts. Today we have the result: a bezel that hits like a flare. It's no small feat to master this particular hue at scale, and far more complex material than most brands care to admit.

On the wrist, it is bold and exciting. A departure from the safe options that we see across a lot of brands within this space. Doxa first did in the 20th century for pure legibility. You'd say OMEGA's confident risk here is for the aesthetics of the Seamaster collection... and it's paid off completely.

Of course, we've seen a few dive watches adopt the orange this year. But for a brand of OMEGA’s scale to bring back a colour this loud as a core offering, not a limited run or a boutique exclusive, tells you everything about where the Planet Ocean is heading.

All three colourways sit within the same dramatically reworked case. It is sharper and more angular than the outgoing generation. But thanks to the reworked sapphire crystal profile, it sits flatter on the wrist for what is arguably the most refined Planet Ocean that OMEGA has ever built.

And beneath all that colour, the fundamentals stay the same. The matte dial, the arrowhead hands, the weight-saving Grade 5 Titanium caseback. All technically brilliant but serving true purpose to the overall function of the watch. Pure Planet Ocean DNA, simply updated for today's contemporary lense.

In the engine room sits OMEGA's Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8912, the movement that positioned OMEGA alongside Rolex in the everyday luxury watch category.

Of course, we've seen this movement before in previous Seamaster Planet Oceans; its predecessor the legendary Calibre 8400 sat within earlier Seamaster 300 models.

But in today's release, a movement of this quality is a must for any professional-grade tool watch, with a Master Chronometer certification ensuring it withstands the transient conditions beneath the deep blue, like temperature drops and magnetic fields that quietly kill lesser movements.

Seven references launch the collection. Three core designs, paired with steel or rubber depending on your lifestyle. Here, the Seamaster line has always been a sprawling family, but this reimagined line-up is giving enough variety for collectors and all the important bells and whistles for first-time toe-dippers.

This is the Planet Ocean that people have been waiting for. It looks tougher. It wears better. It feels more resolved. Two decades after launch, OMEGA has given one of its most important watches a second life.

Read the full article OMEGA Has Just Done The Unthinkable, Launching A Rolex Submariner Rival on DMARGE. Don’t miss it!